Jump to content
SAU Community

Any1 buy those catch cans from autobarn??


Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

Here is what i was telling u guys about. Someone actually looked what was inside one.

Here are his comments from another thread

Bought one today, and got my pen light to have a look up inside it through the drain hole...only to discover that they're hollow! Just a tin basically.

Since these items are recirculating, how are they suppose to stop the vapours recirculating as well? No fins etc to condense the oil vapours.

I will be taking it back tomorrow and will be investing in a cusco one or one of similar quality. Are there any good recirculating catch cans on the market? A breathing one is my last resort.

I should have known better...

hey guys im "whistlas friend" lol....

yeah im not surprised these autobarn ones have turned out to be useless. what do you expect for 90 bucks. i mean i wouldnt buy a 100 dollar intercooler. but anyway...

yes, ive had custom ones made (ready for delivery, not just "an idea" ive had) and whistlas looks fantastic, and actually functions.

mine have an internal downpipe from the 'inlet' that directs fumes into stainless steel mesh to be condensed. the outlet back to the inlet tract is hence above all that and is not afected by oil fumes at all

 i mean i wouldnt buy a 100 dollar intercooler.  but anyway...

why not? i brought a GTR cooler for 70AUD :(

pity it didnt get sent with the car when i got it tho cause it cost 450 to send it to aus :P

what do you expect for 90 bucks.
Well I bought a cusco catch can for 60 bucks (excluding shipping) secondhand from japan which fits an R32... around about the same time that these guys were organising a group buy. :rofl:

Personally I think $270+ is too much to spend on a catch can. I know alot of the jap brands are cheaper than that - do they have fins and stuff inside, or just hollow like autobarn ones? I had a jap brand one (ATS or something) and it was filled with what looked to be baffle matterial, so the vapours would stick to it or something - what is this design like?

Well I bought a cusco catch can for 60 bucks (excluding shipping) secondhand from japan which fits an R32... around about the same time that these guys were organising a group buy.

u can get em new for $100 in nippon. only way to go for most things really *shrug*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...