Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys if you hear of any rb30 blocks or rb25de or rb25det heads for sale around town could you please let me know. Dont mind what level of assembly the block is as i will be sourcing my own pistons and rods, would be good if it has a crank, as for the head, the more assembled it is the better it is.

thanks

I've just started the same project haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5255905
Share on other sites

Sweet, joint thread? Lol

Yeah mate. I am still trying to source the right block. I want the rb30 series 2 block of course. Had a few ridiculous offers from some wreckers. So basically we are both after an rb30 bottom end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256077
Share on other sites

what were the wreckers after for them? whats your price range? ill see what i can do. is it just the block or with pistons, rods and crank? with head? or going 25?

I just want a complete rb30 s2 bottom end. I already have an Rb25det head on my car that I will use.

I got figures of 500-600 from some wreckers down Queanbeyan way.

I understand the going rate for such an engine should be not alot more than $100-150 based on what other people i know have paid for same engine type

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256236
Share on other sites

SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256286
Share on other sites

SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Yeah they go pretty cheap so I am not spending more than i have to on the stock motor. I will go all out on the upgrades. I just need a half decent motor to strip and go from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256293
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256398
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Outside ay, so pretty high chances that its rusted through.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256413
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

R31s started and finished a year before VLs so i dont understand why they all had SII blocks.

And also, with the s1 block, do they still have the flat surface where the threads usually are for the oil and water lines? Or are they from a completely different cast?

no idea on that. as far as i know the only difference are the holes for the turbo lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256444
Share on other sites

That looks like the Lewis engines one, Go see Greg at pro engines, he can get cranks from melbourne, If not i have a crank that might be usable (note the might part)

A collar is a good idea as the 30 cranks only drive about 3mm of the pump gear and are prone the breaking the pumps,

Once again Greg can do that for around 350 fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5257053
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...