Jump to content
SAU Community

Keyless Entry / Immobilser Problem

defari

By defari,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey, this is probably a long shot but maybe someone can shed some light on this problem im having.

I noticed that the range on my keyless entry has been getting worse and worse, almost to the point where I had to be about 1m from the car. I thought it just might be the batteries that were dieing.

A few days ago it completely stopped working, so I opened the car with the keys, started and ran normal for a few days until i stopped for fuel today. Now when I try start the car (when i turn it from accessories to start) it beeps/clicks twice (the sound it makes when the car is being locked WTF?) and now the car wont start. It seems as though the immobilser might not be turning itself off when I try start the car. So i went and bought new batteries for the keyless entry and it still doesnt work.

Anyone able to give me any idea whats wrong with it?

p.s When i replaced the batteries I noticed there was sticky green stuff around the circuits. Not sure if this helps but the red LED light still works so unsure if that may be the problem..

cheers.

Looks exactly like this

gts.jpg

Edited by defari
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315048-keyless-entry-immobilser-problem/
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

you might find that because the batteries have gone flat in you remotes that they have lost their settings. i had to change the batteries in my remotes (mongoose alarm) and had to do a "Remote Learn" to reprogram them to work.

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so same shit is happening again, worked fine for a few days now its f**ked again.. i disconnected everything from the black box but the car still wont start, probably f**ked it even more but f**k it, i was soooo frustrated after a 10 hour day at work i just wanted to get home...

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

cheers for the offer but unfortunately the car is stuck in at work.. Would there be any quick way of disconnecting the alarm completely (allowing me to drive it home) ?

edit: only if you have the time, more than happy to pay for you to come take a look... the car will be there for the next few days.

Edited by defari

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...