Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your going to get different answers from everyone... I personally use only Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. It ranges from about $70-$90 from your local auto shop.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

A quality, fully synthetic at around the 5-40 weight for stock (I think Nissan uses 0-30 but not sure, too thin for my liking).

Personally, I run Valvoline Synpower 10W-50 in my built 30 and Neo in my Stag.

  • 2 weeks later...

GW get their oils off shell and put some additives in it and re-sell it, ive run castrol in most of my cars (5w30) has served me very well, performed better than mobil1 5w50 in my gtr actually, kept oil temps below 90 always where as the mobil1 would get abit hotter even if i wasnt driving the car 'hard'.

where is your proof of castrol "sucking ass"

well after using i didn't develop toxic sludge but if i used it again i probably would and oil pressure dropped off allot at temp. i have no proof, im no big oil company and i cant afford to test hundreds of samples to get a definitive result not many ppl can. but the main reason i said it sucks ass it so that ppl would try alternatives because castrol is advertised heaps and ppl instantly go for it when there are better and or cheaper alternatives.

I believe oil sampling kits are only $26 from CAT, maybe try some Castrol and then get a sample tested and THEN, if appropriate, say it sucks ass, with evidence.

Edited by bubba


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...