Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok ive done alot of reading on here and other site about the rb30/25 and have decided to give it a go.

im not looking for big numbers and working on a budget

im planning on updating this thread with more questions i will have along the way

first of all has anyone done this conversion into a 180sx before?

what problems am i going to run into and how do i solve them.

eg. what cross member,engine mounts do i use to get the motor sitting as low as possible?

will i still have bonnet clearance issues with using a front facing plenuim?

i have got myself an rb30 block that has already got the extra oil feed,and tensioners tapped.

the motor is pretty much complete, just doesnt have pistons.

i have been reading and found that using standard rb30e pistons can be done with out any problems.

can anyone recomend a rebuild kit and who to contact for it?

also do i use the standard rb30e rings or is there some aftermarket ones i should use.

i am located in brisbane so if any1 can point me in the right direction to someone that can answer my questions.

thanks for the help in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315715-about-to-start-my-rb3025det-built/
Share on other sites

Check on Nissansilvia now known as hardtuned.net i think

Im sure theres quiet a few write-ups about sticking an RB into a S1X chassis

as for your other questions, what is the goal of this engine/car/budget?

Go from there mate

block and crank have now gone to get checked out and cleaned up.

contacted repco today and got quoted $625 for rebuilt kit, thats all bearings,pistons,rings and gaskets and they are the ACL brand.

my budget is around $7000-$8500 and thats to have the motor in the car running.

goal - around 300-350kw

and it has to be reliable as i will drive it most days

OP sorry to hijack your thread but, is there anywhere where i can buy this ACL rebuild kit you speak of online? I live in Canada so these kits are extremely hard to come by.

Edited by ST240

progress - went with acl race series bearings. i am having an issue with getting pistons, i decided that i would go on the cheap side of things as i am not chasing big power figures, i got in contact with the supleir for mahle, told him what it is i was doing and that i needed a rb30e piston that was 20tho over. they stock this piston. but he has told me that he highly recomend not to use the rb30e pistons and 2go forged as the 30e piston will not handle anything over 7psi boost and it will be unreliable.

Is there any1 that is using the standard 30e pistons on there builds and run into problems? what boost is safe on the 30e pison?

Where can i get the rb30e pistons from in brisbane?other than repco.

do i still use the rb30e rings? or is there some other i shud use?

or do i just spend the dollors on forged pistons -

got afew quotes and im looking anywhere between $1345 - $1500 for pistons,rings and pins.

One place where you should spend the coin on a budget build is the pistons. If the rotating assembly is balanced properly the stock rods will be ok assuming they have been treated, good rod bolts etc. Head studs and a multi layer gasket like Cometic is recommended.

Nothing wrong with Mahles (forged) pistons mate. Have them in my engine.

Got mine from the US for about $1000 when the dollar was good.

Average price for a good forged piston is about $1350.

One place where you should spend the coin on a budget build is the pistons. If the rotating assembly is balanced properly the stock rods will be ok assuming they have been treated, good rod bolts etc. Head studs and a multi layer gasket like Cometic is recommended.

Nothing wrong with Mahles (forged) pistons mate. Have them in my engine.

Got mine from the US for about $1000 when the dollar was good.

Average price for a good forged piston is about $1350.

do i need to go a forged piston for the power i want tho?

do i need to go a forged piston for the power i want tho?

a bad tune, a little cough (fuel pump sucks a bit of air) or a bad batch of fuel may have you regretting that statement.

even a low power levels any of the above can end the life of a stock cast piston. Something a simple as a fuel reg vacuum hose coming off or splitting...boost acutator line etc.

build it once properly...when you want more power later...and you will! It can be wicked up without a worry.

Your chasing 400-470rwhp

Thats pretty substantial imo, get some mahles or CPs

Mahles could be ordered from IPP around $830 AUD delivered which includes pistons, rings and pins

CPs are roughly $1300 locally i couldnt find a it cheaper overseas so i went for the Mahles and majority votes say Mahles are better

Your chasing 400-470rwhp

Thats pretty substantial imo, get some mahles or CPs

Mahles could be ordered from IPP around $830 AUD delivered which includes pistons, rings and pins

CPs are roughly $1300 locally i couldnt find a it cheaper overseas so i went for the Mahles and majority votes say Mahles are better

ive gotten in contact with repco and got quoted $1450 4mahle forged pistons.

where can i get them for $830?

do u have the part number?

block and crank have now gone to get checked out and cleaned up.

contacted repco today and got quoted $625 for rebuilt kit, thats all bearings,pistons,rings and gaskets and they are the ACL brand.

my budget is around $7000-$8500 and thats to have the motor in the car running.

goal - around 300-350kw

and it has to be reliable as i will drive it most days

the acl picstons are junk, get something decent. Im guessing the car is just for generally having fun etc? as the handle pretty bad with all the extra weight over the front axle centreline. We have done alot of RB conversion over the years.

car003.jpg

got some je? forged pistons, shud get block back tuesday from the shop, still having trouble finding out what cross member i shud b using.

JE's are sweet and my first choice, little more hardy than the mahles in a street car. approx $1100

ns.com have alot of info on ther, but they are all doing different things, so it is hard 2get a straight answer.

got the bottom end back on tuesday, $3000 later and i still need to figure out what im doing about an oil pump. i have got the crank collar, but have made afew calls and been told not 2use that, and im better off getting the crank welded and machined - $250,

also what oil pump should i be using? have got quoted $710 for an rb25det.

also does any1 recomend a place in brisbane to get the work on my head done? and what do u recomend getting done to it?

i have read the build guide, just wanting to know what u recomend.

ns.com have alot of info on ther, but they are all doing different things, so it is hard 2get a straight answer.

got the bottom end back on tuesday, $3000 later and i still need to figure out what im doing about an oil pump. i have got the crank collar, but have made afew calls and been told not 2use that, and im better off getting the crank welded and machined - $250,

also what oil pump should i be using? have got quoted $710 for an rb25det.

also does any1 recomend a place in brisbane to get the work on my head done? and what do u recomend getting done to it?

i have read the build guide, just wanting to know what u recomend.

What did you get done on the bottom end that cost $3000?

You can run a collar that's not an issue. They use heat to put it on, as it's an interfierance fit, then they put grub screws in on opposite sides.

It will never move like this. I have done both, collar and welded it, never had an issue with either.

For oil pump any twin cam oil pump will suffice. Again depends on what your going to use it for, if it's going to see alot of track work then I would probably go a nitto pump. Otherwise just take the back of a second hand standard twin cam pump, verify it's OK, new front seal/outer gasket and away you go.

Don't forget to grind down the lugs on the 30 block to clear the exhaust manifold, and also put your oil restrictor in. Rear blocked, front 1.5 if you go standard twin cam pump.

For Brisbane I recommend Matthew at Southside Cylinder Heads. Very good guy. Just google it.

I would probably just go a light port/polish. Could probably do springs if you want, seems to be hit/miss the people that experience valve float at the power your chasing.

Edited by James_03
What did you get done on the bottom end that cost $3000?

You can run a collar that's not an issue. They use heat to put it on, as it's an interfierance fit, then they put grub screws in on opposite sides.

It will never move like this. I have done both, collar and welded it, never had an issue with either.

For oil pump any twin cam oil pump will suffice. Again depends on what your going to use it for, if it's going to see alot of track work then I would probably go a nitto pump. Otherwise just take the back of a second hand standard twin cam pump, verify it's OK, new front seal/outer gasket and away you go.

Don't forget to grind down the lugs on the 30 block to clear the exhaust manifold, and also put your oil restrictor in. Rear blocked, front 1.5 if you go standard twin cam pump.

For Brisbane I recommend Matthew at Southside Cylinder Heads. Very good guy. Just google it.

I would probably just go a light port/polish. Could probably do springs if you want, seems to be hit/miss the people that experience valve float at the power your chasing.

$3000 was on - je forged pistons. acl race series bearings and gaskets. bored 20thou over, acid bath,final clean,all new welsh plugs, crank cleaned,polished and regrind, ther was a couple other things just dont have the reciept here.

i will b using this car as my daily driver, and it will not really be seeing the track.

think i will use the crank collar i have here and possible go a new rb25det oil pump.

with the restictors - the block i got aparently has them in. how do i know?

i will contact southside cylinder heads 2morrow.

Do GTR valve springs fit the rb25det head?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
    • att.4QNbuJlz_gNZPFBGFqeEvxSUHXkGt7z40V59MrtXTPg.mp4    
    • Plan on the day will be to park trackside. Depending on space availability we will try put a small shade tent and a few of the cars on top of the hill inside turn 3, this is an easy to get to parking area with views of Turn 2, Turn 3, Turn 4 and Turn 5 and limited other pieces of the view around the track. IMPORTANT NOTE! One consideration from previous years is from memory the trackside parking sells out before the admission tickets, for that reason I encourage anyone planning on coming to buy tickets for parking now via the official website; https://www.worldtimeattack.com/ The type of parking you are looking for is 2 Day Park & View (Access Around Venue) Vehicle Pass Only Please note this does not include admission to the event itself, remember to grab that also, and kids under 12 get in for free!
    • This is going to be a mid week evening cruise. Come along and join us for a drive out to Palm Beach. This is a change of event plans after talking to some of the older members of the club. SAU NSW is planning on hitting Old Pac again shortly, stay tuned for details. When: Thursday 26th of June Time: 7:30pm meet/8:00pm departure/10:00pm finish Meet: Spit West Car Park / Spit Rd Mosman NSW 2088 Destination: Palm Beach Public Parking / 16 Ocean Rd Palm Beach NSW 2108 Up to date information as always can be found on the events page of our website, the link for this event is https://www.saunsw.com.au/events/palm-beach-cruise There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our track days. This is an official SAUNSW event and will be run under a Motorsport Australia permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU:NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave. Thanks guys and hope to see you there!
×
×
  • Create New...