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About To Start My Rb30/25det Built


adamhr33
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$3000 was on - je forged pistons. acl race series bearings and gaskets. bored 20thou over, acid bath,final clean,all new welsh plugs, crank cleaned,polished and regrind, ther was a couple other things just dont have the reciept here.

i will b using this car as my daily driver, and it will not really be seeing the track.

think i will use the crank collar i have here and possible go a new rb25det oil pump.

with the restictors - the block i got aparently has them in. how do i know?

i will contact southside cylinder heads 2morrow.

Do GTR valve springs fit the rb25det head?

Just get a workshop to fit your existing collar. As long as they grub screw it as well, there is no issue.

Your rb30 block will have restrictors, just not the right ones unless the workshop has fitted them. Seeing has your still not sure on which pump to run, I probably doubt they have fitted them. To tell if there fitted you measure the internal ID of the restrictor, stock is 2mm, 1.5 is what you want. Do a search for "oil control" or "restrictors". There is a guide to which restrictors to use for most configs and pumps.

GTR valve springs I can't answer, someone else might be able to. I know the rb26 head uses solid lifters, where as your rb25 use hydraulic. So I would say in order to use 26 springs, you need to do a solid lifter conversion as well.

Which by the time your done with labour, you could have bought a 26 head anyway. Just check out these guys:

http://www.performancesprings.com.au/

They do an aftermarket spring for the rb25det. Back in the day myn cost about $400 fitted. Springs aren't an absolute requirement but, it's only really to avoid potential float, and then give you the ability to larger cams latter down the track.

Edited by James_03
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Just get a workshop to fit your existing collar. As long as they grub screw it as well, there is no issue.

Your rb30 block will have restrictors, just not the right ones unless the workshop has fitted them. Seeing has your still not sure on which pump to run, I probably doubt they have fitted them. To tell if there fitted you measure the internal ID of the restrictor, stock is 2mm, 1.5 is what you want. Do a search for "oil control" or "restrictors". There is a guide to which restrictors to use for most configs and pumps.

GTR valve springs I can't answer, someone else might be able to. I know the rb26 head uses solid lifters, where as your rb25 use hydraulic. So I would say in order to use 26 springs, you need to do a solid lifter conversion as well.

Which by the time your done with labour, you could have bought a 26 head anyway. Just check out these guys:

http://www.performancesprings.com.au/

They do an aftermarket spring for the rb25det. Back in the day myn cost about $400 fitted. Springs aren't an absolute requirement but, it's only really to avoid potential float, and then give you the ability to larger cams latter down the track.

guy i bought the motor off said he had installed the oil restrictors, ill check it on my next day off work.

ill check that site out, i am planning on going aftermarket cams anyway.

i have decided to go a rb26dett oil pump, i can pick 1up new for $550. i will take the crank back 2my machine shop on tuesday and get them 2fit the collar.

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How are you going to mount it down low enough so it doesnt hit the bonnet?

will just have to cut a hole in the bonnet i think.or space it up on the latches. i am going 2be using a front facing plenum so it shud help with clearance issues

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  • 5 weeks later...

i have been told my block has the oil restrictors in it already,but am unsure how to check if they are.i am using an N1 pump,so what size should they be?

slowly collecting all the parts i need and will start putting the motor together this weekend.

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my progress so far - and parts i have got.

Rb30 block -

decked

acid bath

bored 20tho over

JE forged pistons

standard rods - shot piened

crank cleaned up and machined

crank collar

N1 oil pump

ACL race series bearings and gaskets

Oil restrictors - unsure on exact size,but a 1mm drillbit fits in the front restrictor easily, but doesnt fit the rear.

Rb25det head(unsure what series)

full recondition and check

valve seat regrind( race grind)

aftermarket heavy duty valve springs

new seals

280 inl/ext kelford cams 9.5 lift (paperwork i have says they are drag racing cams)

Gates adjustable cam gears

Turbo -

Garret Gt35r with .82 rear housing

Tial 38mm external wastegate

have got an rb20 engine cross member and brackets,will also be using ford cortina engine mounts - hopefully it will get the motor sitting low enough so i dont have 2much issues with bonnet clearance.

any idea on what kinda power figures i could expect to get with this set up?

what size injectors should i be looking at getting?recomend any brands?

also what fuel pump should i get? have been told that i should consider using multipul fuel pumps and surge tank.

what water pump is recomended to keep the motor the coolest? i am considering using an electric water pump - thoughts? remember this is going into a 180sx and the biggest issue i am going to have is keeping the underbonet temps as low as possible.

the guy i got the block and head from had already put some oil restrictors in. And the block and head have had the external Oil feed modifications done.also the hole in the head for VCT has been blocked. Q. the cams that i am using are non VCT, is ther anything that i needs to be done to the head because the cams i have got are non VCT? do i just use the external oil feed and just block it off at the head and block?

any other advice or thoughts you wanna tell me,feel free

thanks

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nismo 740cc injectors should do the trick but some 850cc sards should have you covered with some head room, what fuel pump will you be running?

your setup should be making roughly 450-550hp depending on boost?

in regard to the cooling of the engine, id recommend a koyo CA18 radiator with twin thermos on the condensor side as im pretty sure u wont have any room on the engine side.. and a decent fan controller with active temp monitorying and auto fan control.

electronic water pump, just another thing that can fail, dont bother wasting your money there

if cams are non-vct just block off the oil feed

Edited by snozzle
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  • 1 month later...

so i finally got my motor in 2day.pretty happy with the way it is sitting. but having an issue with the gearbox crossmember. i am using an r32 g/box cross member with the letter C stamped on it,none of the holes line up and the gear stick isnt comming up through the floor in the centre - its forward a fairbit..

the other problem i have is that clutch master cylinder is hitting the back of the plenum - i have a greddy copy plenum.and clutch master cylinder has 5/8 writen on the side.

Any1 know how to solve these problems?

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also can and1 tell me what the 2holes are at the back of an rb25det head. they are on either side of the bottom welsh plug. 1 is threaded and leads to nowhere, and the other isnt threaded and goes into the head somewhere

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  • 1 month later...

Where do i get water feed to the turbo from? i am not running a heater or water cooler on the oil filter(rb25det have them) . Can i run it from the hole that comes outa the thermostat housing on the block? My block has 2holes for water on the exhaust side, but i have been told that i block 1 and use the other as water return from the turbo.what 1 do i block,what 1 is the return?

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Turbo -

Garret Gt35r with .82 rear housing

Tial 38mm external wastegate

i would buy a 44mm gate or bigger. the 38mm is gonna spike boost and is too small for ur power goals and size of your turbo

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  • 5 weeks later...

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