Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual Vs Auto Rear Coilover Length

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
Posted

I have my Tein CS coilovers and I know they are meant for an auto Stagea, whereas mine is manual.

My question I have is whether the auto rear coilover is the same length as a manual coilover? The guy I spoke to today at Fulcrum at Stafford tells me that the auto coilovers are shorter than the manual coilovers. Is this true?

Thanking you gurus in advance!!

Cheers,

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316404-manual-vs-auto-rear-coilover-length/
Share on other sites
chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have my Tein CS coilovers and I know they are meant for an auto Stagea, whereas mine is manual.

My question I have is whether the auto rear coilover is the same length as a manual coilover? The guy I spoke to today at Fulcrum at Stafford tells me that the auto coilovers are shorter than the manual coilovers. Is this true?

Thanking you gurus in advance!!

Cheers,

Adam

Hi Adam what is the lenght of your shockies.put lenght`s up ,i have set so i will give you size ,REAR 735 mm centre of Eye to Top of Plate ok ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Edited by chuckie
Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Adam what is the lenght of your shockies.put lenght`s up ,i have set so i will give you size ,REAR 735 mm centre of Eye to Top of Plate ok ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Cheers mate. I'll let you know what mine are this arvo.

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Length of my rear coilovers are 685mm, the guy at Fulcrum was right.

Looks like either I pay $700 to get mine modified, which I'm not too sure about.

Or I sell the ones I have and buy the right type for my Stagea.

Oki34 Enthusiast

Oki34

Posted
Posted

Couldn't you just put R33 rear spindles on and they'd bolt right up? Seems like a very inexpensive alternative. You'd lose the aluminum spindles for cast iron, but for 700 minus whatever the R33 spindles cost I'd say it's worth it.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

wouldn't it be pointless trying to compare lengths of adjustable coilovers, i mean they could be adjusted to any length on the thread. i thought the only difference between the auto and manual rears was as wolverine said, eyelet style mounting for the auto, and fork style for the manual.

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Couldn't you just put R33 rear spindles on and they'd bolt right up? Seems like a very inexpensive alternative. You'd lose the aluminum spindles for cast iron, but for 700 minus whatever the R33 spindles cost I'd say it's worth it.

If I could find the R33 GTR rear spindles to suit my coilovers, no problem. But that could be easier said than done. I haven't seen too many Tein CS coilovers getting around.

wouldn't it be pointless trying to compare lengths of adjustable coilovers, i mean they could be adjusted to any length on the thread. i thought the only difference between the auto and manual rears was as wolverine said, eyelet style mounting for the auto, and fork style for the manual.

I have compared the manual to the auto coilovers and the Tein's I have are definitely shorter. I thought it was just the eyelet or fork at the bottom that was the difference. However with further research, I found out that Fulcrum were correct. As they are the Australian distributors, I'd hope they know what they are talking about.

Oki34 Enthusiast

Oki34

Posted
Posted
If I could find the R33 GTR rear spindles to suit my coilovers, no problem. But that could be easier said than done. I haven't seen too many Tein CS coilovers getting around.

The GT-R spindles would be the same as what you've got. You need the regular ones. Any model with HICAS.

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still doesn't solve the problem of the rear coilovers being too short.

I may see if someone will buy them in my sale thread in the Stagea Parts Classifieds, at least that way i can recoup my cash & put it towards a set that will suit my car.

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted

I just measured what I have

I have a series 2 manual rear end

I have a series 2 auto rear end

And a manual SK rear bilstien shock

Shock length from centre of bolt in fork to top of strut top is 685mm

These next measurements are a bit rough as it was in the dark

The measurement of the Auto rear end between the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the bolt that the bottom eyelet of strut slides on is approx 55mm

The measurement of the Manual rear end between the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the hole in the hub that the bottom bolt for the strut fork is approx 90-95mm

So the auto struts need to be approx 35-40mm shorter than manual ones

I also had a look to see if you could swap the auto hubs (no hicas) over but you can't due to the hicas setup.

Even if you find another hub from a R33 gtst with hicas, there may still be a problem with the bearing sizes as they are a few different sizes and styles.

This should answer your original question

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
, because the R33 and auto Stagea spindles are the same part,

That is only partly true.

Non turbo R33 Gts and auto stagea could be the same as both do not have hicas

Turbo R33 gtst has hicas so not the same

Plus you need to check the rear drive shafts as stagea's have 3 different types which effects the bearing sizes on the rear hubs

Oki34 Enthusiast

Oki34

Posted
Posted (edited)

All the bearings will interchange with all the spindles. The bolt spacing on the hub is the same, just the bearing and axle diameter are different, so this is a non-issue.

You can swap HICAS and non-HICAS stuff around if you have a press, you just swap the ball joint part onto the non-HICAS spindle. To keep it simple, however, I suggested the R33 spindles. When I said they're the same as Stagea I meant where the shock bolts up. I like simple part swaps better than worrying about pressing out and back in parts that could possibly get messed up in the process, so personally I would just swap the spindles with 33 HICAS ones, and keep the old ones in case these shocks go out and an affordable set of manual Stagea coilovers presented themselves before another set of auto coilovers did.

Edited by Oki34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...