Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol ^

There is no evidence that flutter damages your turbo, so it is hard to say how much if any damage it would be doing. Personally i think it does damage the turbo, but if you are worried about it then just remedy it with a good plumb back bov

kkr :) ..wat bov "if so" r u currently running?,and i wouldnt worry bowt the flutter too much (that is unless u dont like it).I Had no bov on my old 180sx for nearly 5 years runnin a T28 running @1bar everyday and never had any problems at all and luvd the flutter :D

There IS evidence actually mate.

Ceramic turbo's last long under surge. Steel wheel as found in R33s can handle it, they'll usually end up with shaft play before the turbine blades go, either way it is bad for your turbo. The more boost the worse it is.

If you want to fix it straight away, either loop the intake to skip the turbo, if you have a boost controller - cut out boost altogether, and rectify why your blow off valve isnt opening.

There IS evidence actually mate.

Ceramic turbo's last long under surge. Steel wheel as found in R33s can handle it, they'll usually end up with shaft play before the turbine blades go, either way it is bad for your turbo. The more boost the worse it is.

If you want to fix it straight away, either loop the intake to skip the turbo, if you have a boost controller - cut out boost altogether, and rectify why your blow off valve isnt opening.

It would be very hard to prove that compressor surge was the reason for any turbo failure, hence there is no actual evidence to demonstrate that. I know people that are running 12-14psi through ceramic turbos with no bov, and have been for years, yet their turbos still have very little to no shaft play. On the other hand, my mechanic showed me a turbo that he had been running in his R33 GTS-T for 40xxxkms and never fluttered, the shaft had way too much play.

Having said that, i am on your side, i believe it causes damage and should be avoided. I am just saying there is no physical evidence that can be solely contributed to compressor surge

Edited by Hanaldo

Then what you claim is there is no evidence, in ANY case, regardless of any setup, to say that anything caused turbo death or extended its life. What would have caused it then ? stock turbo's don't blow teeth off... :)

Its highly likely that bouncing 10psi at 7 grand back onto ceramic blades will cause those blades to break free. Any that doesnt is simply a factory freak.

That's the thing, it can't be proven beyond any shadow of a doubt. Personally i accept what evidence there is (eg. what you said above ^) as flutter is bad and causes damage. But as far as firm concrete evidence is concerned, there are plenty of stock turbos out there fluttering away happily. I forget what magazine it was in, pretty sure it was HPI because that's what i read most, but there was an article in there about testing done on a stock RB25 turbo where they literally fluttered it to death, and yes the blades blew sky high. But the final verdict was that the result was not conclusive because there were too many other factors. The turbo had already travelled 120xxxkms, and who knows how hard it had been pushed or how poorly it had been looked after. The fact that the wheel blew under flutter could simply be an indication that it was already damaged.

Oh and Im guessing somebody will come back with "oh but Ceffies didnt have boV from factory and their ceramic turbo's last just as long" - yes, but factory turbo ceffies boost less than 5 psi... which is safe enough for ceramic, can probably handle a tad more. Steel wheel can handle alot more on top, but for "massive flutter" you need some seriously high pressure.

Edited by Nic_A31
That's the thing, it can't be proven beyond any shadow of a doubt. Personally i accept what evidence there is (eg. what you said above ^) as flutter is bad and causes damage. But as far as firm concrete evidence is concerned, there are plenty of stock turbos out there fluttering away happily. I forget what magazine it was in, pretty sure it was HPI because that's what i read most, but there was an article in there about testing done on a stock RB25 turbo where they literally fluttered it to death, and yes the blades blew sky high. But the final verdict was that the result was not conclusive because there were too many other factors. The turbo had already travelled 120xxxkms, and who knows how hard it had been pushed or how poorly it had been looked after. The fact that the wheel blew under flutter could simply be an indication that it was already damaged.

This is probably where we're dissagreing.

What death exactly are you thinking of?

Im saying that high pressure going back towards a compressor will rip the blades off the wheel.

Immediately slowing down and speeding back up (surge) can cause the shaft to snap, or contribute towards shaft play, and shaft play / broken shaft can also be affected by prior life of the turbo (kms, oils used, treatment etc), such factors cannot possibly cause the blades on a wheel to come off ... that can only be caused by excessive feedback.

Edited by Nic_A31

Yeah like I said, shaft play / snapping / any shaft drama' is caused by any or a combination of issues. Spinning at 200'000 or 300'000 rpm, then being forced to go the other way in less than half a second certainly doesnt help the shaft live a long and happy life.

Hey guys, thanks for the reply's.

It hasn't had an Aftermarket Bov installed so I'm guessing that its running stock if not, none at all.

so the Kkr isn't such a good turbo?

would you please suggest A turbo that would be a good replacement, here are my engine specs at the moment

Engine: Rb25Det

83000kms

KKr430 turbo

High Mount Stainless Manifold

38mm Wastegate

HKS AirFilter

Front Mount Intercooler

HKS HI Power Turbo back 3 1/2" exhaust system

Bosh 044 External Fuel Pump (in tank)

Iridiums

HKS Turbo Timer

Turbosmart Manual Boost

there's A link to my car, you can clearly hear the flutter

Wow, this thread is full of fail.

What has ceramic wheels got to do with failing due to flutter?

The ceramic wheel is on the exhaust side..

The returning air does NOT stall the turbo, and it does NOT make it spin the other way.

The only thing it will be doing is putting a bit of extra load on the fins of the compressor wheel as it tries to push air into the returning air.

Edited by bubba
Wow, this thread is full of fail.

What has ceramic wheels got to do with failing due to flutter?

The ceramic wheel is on the exhaust side..

The returning air does NOT stall the turbo, and it does NOT make it spin the other way.

The only thing it will be doing is putting a bit of extra load on the fins of the compressor wheel as it tries to push air into the returning air.

I agree with bubba, build a 25/30!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...