Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hicas lock is very effective for track work. The hicas system is actually not to bad for road driving, but it corrects you, so if you're drifting, or taking a hard corner, it corrects your over/under steer (This is my understanding). I got intoa bit of trouble one day cuase the hicas kicked in when i was going sideways, and it nearly cost me my car. I know for a fact, that any car that is set up for track (skylines that is) they use the hicas lock system by religoin. If you're going for track use hicas lock. Its $295 for the TOMEI hicas lock, which is the best one out as far as i know, its availabe at nismo.com.au

Hicas%20lock.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-54180
Share on other sites

If you want to turn of the HICAS, and can put up with the light, you can just pull the sensor connection in the engine bay. It will allow no signal to got the HICAS computer. I put in the tomei kit,and it tells you to do this. The interceptor that plugs in to the HICAS computer is just ot stop the light coming on.

i'll scan the instructions tonight and post them

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-55238
Share on other sites

I'm not 100% sure but I think there is more to it than that.

The Tomei HICAS lock (I've got one, he he he) has brass shimms that need to be installed in the hicas system somewhere. You can see them in the picture above.

Now I honestly have no idea where or why they put them in, but I'm sure it's for a reason.

I've never driven a R33 with HICAS hard, so i can't compare, but I know mine is very predictable when sideways :D

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-55406
Share on other sites

I don't know if the r32's are the same....but a very quick and cheap way is to dissconnect the HICAS plug at the diff.

You will get the dash board warning light thou...

takes about 30 seconds. this was on a r33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-55606
Share on other sites

The brass rings in the Tomei kit are to mechanically lock out the HICAS actuating rods located next to the diff.

I haven't put these in yet, but have done the rest of the installation. Main reason being is that you need to get your wheels re-aligned because it gives each wheel more toe in, and I have only just got them alligned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-55694
Share on other sites

It seems funny that you cannot just buy an electronic device to disable the HICAS....perhaps it really isn't that safe to ONLY electronically disable it? I have felt a HICAS "Twitch" and at highway speed or more I wouldn't want that to happen.

This is why all the HICAS lock kits by TOMEI, CUSCO etc are both mechanical and electrical.

Chris32....lets say that the brass rings are 3mm thick then all you have to do is wind the tierod end IN 3mm to compensate for the spacer. Shouldn't be that hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3177-hicas-lock/#findComment-55921
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...