Jump to content
SAU Community

Series 2 + 1 Bar = Good Or Bad?

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

basically if i was to buy a turbo that will actually keep up with the rb25s hunger for air would 14 psi be too much? i would of course buy a haltech, malpassi etc... i just dont want to buy stuff if at the end my engine just falls apart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317716-series-2-1-bar-good-or-bad/
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

1 bar will be fine, stock engine will handle it. Just get some kind of ecu management and you'll be fine. I'm runnng just over a bar on mine at the moment without a problem, i also have plans to go higher :( Don't worry about an adjustable fpr, waste of money IMO. What turbo are you looking at getting?

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Josh,

Do you think adjustable FPR is a waste of time? Im trying to weigh up if I should chuck a bigger turbo on my stag..... Prob would just get a high flow for ease of instalment and dont have to worry about defect... Ive got all the supportive mods (FMIC, Turbo back, SITC, SAFC, EBC Splitfires ect ect...)

What else would I need to run the bigger turbo at say 14ish psi? Fuel pump? Injectors?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Josh,

Do you think adjustable FPR is a waste of time? Im trying to weigh up if I should chuck a bigger turbo on my stag..... Prob would just get a high flow for ease of instalment and dont have to worry about defect... Ive got all the supportive mods (FMIC, Turbo back, SITC, SAFC, EBC Splitfires ect ect...)

What else would I need to run the bigger turbo at say 14ish psi? Fuel pump? Injectors?

Yes get an upgrade fuel pump. Only reason to get an adjustable fpr is to push more fuel through your injectors than normal. For not much more money you can get a set of 480cc (or 550) injectors - a better idea in my view. Apart from a better turbo a quality professional tune is the key to max power.
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Chris, as kiwi said, definitely get a new fuel pump, purely for the fact that the one you have now could be up to ~15 years old. fuel pump failure will cause lean mixtures and could potentially kill your engine.

adjustable FPR's can be used to allow you to get that little bit extra out of the stock injectors. the way i see it, why waste your time stuffing around with one running higher fuel pressures in a dodge attempt to save a little extra coin, just to find out that you are going to have to upgrade the injectors at a latter date anyway. adjustable FPR's have there place with aftermarket fuel rail setups that don't accommodate one, and then just use it to set the recommended base fuel pressure.

the only mods i'd add to your list would be, a decent fuel pump, and a better kind of engine management that the SAFC/SITC combo (all depending on the hiflows specs, you may get away with it). in the back of my mind would be injectors and AFM, but i'd wait to see how close to maxing them out i was first.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
Ok so shopping list, feel free to make corrections and fill holes -

Management - nistune

turbo - ???

injectors - ???

Fuel pump - bosch 040

thanks for any info

what power level are you aiming for steven?

a couple of options could be, the GT3076 seems to be a favourite among RB25 owners. not too laggy and good top end result. but will require a different dump pipe, and oil/water lines, intake pipe. if your not after big power the smaller GTRS is a good responsive turbo and i believe they come in a bolt on kit that bolts up to the stock dump pipe pattern.

after you work out what power level your aiming for you can then size your injectors, if you need them. if you do 500-600cc is a good size to look at. you should go over to the forced induction section of the forum and start going through the RB25 dyno results thread and look at other peoples setups and the results they got.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't have a power figure I'm chasing. Just want a reliable 1bar. If I can get it to out run an aurion I will be happy. But it's more of a me being stuck in my old ways. My celica I set up to run 1 bar and it was just a nice number. ATM I just over the boost cut on cold nights. If possible I wanted to keep my stock outlet location on the turbo and still use my jjr dump.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

just get a nistune board installed and tuned for 11-12psi on the stock turbo and you wont be far off that. stock injectors and afm will be fine. see how that feels and if you still want more then do the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...