Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all have just got myself an r33 , had a previous repair on the belt and after setting everything up according to all timing marks i have no compression on any cylinders , any help on fixing this issue will be appreciated

What happened to the last belt? If it was snapped while driving then the engine is probably a throw away.

Edited by DSTROY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198216
Share on other sites

before you go removing the head, remove tappet covers and see if either any valves have stuck down (ie bent) or if any can be pulled out spring and all (ie broken valves)

Cant see all the valves in every cylinder kissing pistons therefore should have some pressure....you're clearly doing something wrong.

....and if a valve hits a piston, the whole motor is not necessarily a throw away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198269
Share on other sites

removing the head will be the last option , will be removing the tappet covers tomorrow to check out everything else . not much else you can do wrong if you set everything the way the factory says to ( ie using all of the timing marks etc ) even with no belt the motor still free spins with all the plugs in it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198289
Share on other sites

removing the head will be the last option , will be removing the tappet covers tomorrow to check out everything else . not much else you can do wrong if you set everything the way the factory says to ( ie using all of the timing marks etc ) even with no belt the motor still free spins with all the plugs in it

you didn't did you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198305
Share on other sites

no i didnt , it seems that the previous owner has spent a lot of time trying to get this thing running again and has just told me that once they had fitted the timing belt and went to start the car it locked up ( now i know i have bigger issues ) and they went over it and reset everything numerous times with no good results ( including winding the motor with out the belt to see if they had any compression ) seems that i can move both cams with little or no force aswell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198326
Share on other sites

clearly you guys don't know what you're doing so I suggest you see a mechanic.

First you said that it turns with no compression now you're saying that it locks up and in between you said that the motor spins freely without the belt which is an absolute NO NO to anyone that knows what they are doing....goodluck with it mate but it does look like you've got some troubles now that could've possibly been avoided if taken to a mechanic immediately

EDIT: Also, I don't see how you can turn the cams easily if the lobes are hard pressed against spring retainers.....unless of course certain valves are stuck open or broken now (which I'm guessing is quite likely).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198336
Share on other sites

sounds like you bent the valves which now won't close to create compression, by attempting to fix something with no clue

RB's are interference engines, throw a belt, bend a valve or break them off in most cases

open the oil filler cap, have someone spin the engine by hand, see if you can see the rockers/cams etc moving at all, before wasting time pulling the head

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318006-no-compression/#findComment-5198901
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...