R32 Gtr Removing The Sump Without Lifting The Engine Out- Help!

[OLLIE_NZ]

Hi guys,

First post here.

My name's Ollie, I'm from Central Auckland, New Zealand

A friend and I have recently purchased a 1994 R32 GTR.

The plan with the car is a circuit only car (road registered for when we get rich and want to enter the Dunlop Targa and hill climb events.

I've owned a 1988 Ford Sierra Cosworth RS which I sold a couple of years back.

I currently also own a 1989 BMW E30 M3.

Cheers,

Ollie.

As per the title,

A friend and I have recently purchased a 1994 R32 GTR.

We're trying to remove the sump to have it extended and baffling put in.

We're doing in my friends garage, we don't have an engine hoist or car hoist.

We're aware (probably now more than ever) that it might/would have been easier to remove the whole engine and gearbox in one piece and work from there but.... at the time we didn't want to go buying an engine hoist, nor did we want to pay someone else what we assume would be quite a lot of money to remove the engine for us.

So far we've removed what we assume is nearly everything required to gain access to the last couple of sump bolts that are sandwiched between the gearbox and rear of the sump.

We've removed the subframe and dropped that out (the front of the engine is supported by a winch stropped from the roof of the garage).

We've put a jack under the rear of the gearbox and lowered that down so we now have a small gap and a view of the last remaining bolts (we hope). The gap between the engine and gearbox is not quite big enough to get a ratchet into yet, we need another inch of so we think.

The starter motor is off, the exhaust has been split apart by the cats.

The front drive shaft is disconnected, the gear stick etc inside the car has been removed to allow the gearbox to be able to be lowered down.

All gearbox bolts are off, including the top 2. Do we need to remove the rear drive shaft to gain this additional inch? Do we need yo do something with the clutch fork? Any other ideas?

(We've done a lot of forum searching, but as we're not removing either the gearbox or the engine completely none of the other threads we've found seem to have it all laid out for us)

Thanks guys,

Ollie.

[Duncan]

Hi guys,

First post here.

My name's Ollie, I'm from Central Auckland, New Zealand

A friend and I have recently purchased a 1994 R32 GTR.

The plan with the car is a circuit only car (road registered for when we get rich and want to enter the Dunlop Targa and hill climb events.

welcome! you should drop by the motorsport section, there are plenty of people with dedicated track and rally cars there

We're aware (probably now more than ever) that it might/would have been easier to remove the whole engine and gearbox in one piece and work from there

Bloody oath it would be! If you have a winch to hold the motor up you have a winch to pull the motor out!

Anyway, behind the flywheel there are are 4x M6 bolts from the rear main to the sump. Unless you are feeling really keen and want to drill access holes for a 1/4" 10mm socket, the flywheel has to come off. And to get that off the gearbox has to come out.

which way does the rod on the clutch slave cylinder face? If it points forward you have a pull type clutch and you have to release the fork from the trust bearing before you can pull the box off. If the clutch slave faces rear you have push type and the gearbox should slide straight off.

You will probably need to remove the tailshaft and attessa line to move the gearbox far enough to get at the flywheel. Don't forget to bleed attessa when you put it all back together.

For next time, removing the motor is a much smaller job than what you are doing now.....disconnect gear box, remove intake above the turbs, undo front pipes, undo wiring on the intake side and top of motor, pull DSF driveshaft out, remove front intermediate shaft, radiator hoses, oil cooler lines if applicable. Fair bit less work than doing the whole subframe

[savant]

Hi Duncan,

Thanks for the info there. Next time it will definitely be engine out but we are well down this road now so might as well finish!

The car is a 94 and the rod on the clutch slave cylinder faces forward. From your description this means the pull type clutch. Any guidelines on removing (and reinstalling) the fork from the thrust bearing?

Thanks for your help.

Cheers

[Duncan]

yes there are guides....i but not from me! I've only ever dealt with the push ones. just try a search of "pull clutch remove" or similar

[OLLIE_NZ]

Well the clutch fork is now out, R-Clip removed and the pin has fallen out. (god only knows how one manages to reinstall the pin)

We've unbolted the hanger bearing to allow us a few more inches, but it looks as though we'll have to remove the rear drive shaft all together to gain access to the flywheel.

It looks as though you can't gain access to the last few sump bolts between the engine and the gearbox with the flywheel in place?

[Duncan]

correct (unless you want to drill access holes in the bottom of the sump webbing, not an issue if you do)