Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Turbo Removal...

iplen

By iplen,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

After finding an Exhaust turbine in my Cat converter I am currently removing the turbos.. Have it down to the oil lines, the prob I have is that the line that runs above the manifolds from front to back (rubber line at the front, into metal, then to the centre junction, then onto the bach of the motor) where there is a Banjo fitting into a block, the nut for the Banjo fitting is not coming loose and is very close to having a good tube spanner start to round it off. So my question is do I need to remove the block it goes into any way, and where does the other end of that line end up, because I am buggered if I can find it... I have has a look through DIYs etc, and have attempted to search, but it came up with an error, and the error was written in french...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318416-r32-gtr-turbo-removal/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
After finding an Exhaust turbine in my Cat converter I am currently removing the turbos.. Have it down to the oil lines, the prob I have is that the line that runs above the manifolds from front to back (rubber line at the front, into metal, then to the centre junction, then onto the bach of the motor) where there is a Banjo fitting into a block, the nut for the Banjo fitting is not coming loose and is very close to having a good tube spanner start to round it off. So my question is do I need to remove the block it goes into any way, and where does the other end of that line end up, because I am buggered if I can find it... I have has a look through DIYs etc, and have attempted to search, but it came up with an error, and the error was written in french...

It sounds like you're talking about coolant lines, not oil. Photos please. If its that really big one in the center near the cam cover, then yes its a bitch because its hard to hold still, and if you dont you bend the tubes either side. I would use a large socket rather than a tube spanner. I cant recall if you have to undo that big one, but you do need to undo the two flare nuts along the same tubes to right to remove the lot. I had flare nut spanners and still couldnt undo them - they just rounded off, so i cut the tubes close to the flare nut so i could get a socket on them, and therefore had to buy new tubes to replace them. Good luck.

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, bad description on my behalf, it is the flare nut on the right (Back) that I am struggling with, the big one in the centre will def be a socket job if it needs to come undone, so far does seem to be mainly coolant coming out of the hoses, think it might be time to break out the tin snips and cut the hose... Thanks heaps for the help, was close to cutting but thought I better ask here first...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...