Jump to content
SAU Community

Muffler Suggestion?

dk.boi

By dk.boi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dk.boi Apprentice

dk.boi

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Ive recently bought a r34 25gt, the previous has removed the original muffler and replaced it with some cheap dodgy one. I am planning on replacing it.Do you guys have any suggestion from something that is value for money? I am also on my red p's. will I become cop bait, if i change it?

Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318682-muffler-suggestion/
Share on other sites
-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted

If I was you I would be replacing the system from the cat back. You'll be able to either get a custom one made up or perhaps find an aftermarket japanese system on the forums etc.

Most people will tell you not to go any bigger than a 2.5" system on an NA car like yours however I'm running 3.5" HKS on my RB25DE and my mate has a Blitz system which is 3" and they both perform fine. That said, my brother is using a custom 2.5" catback system and I can definitely notice more response and power down low in the rev range.

How much do you have to spend? A custom mandrel bent catback from an exhaust shop will probably charge you around the $500 mark give or take a little?

Hope that helped a bit.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i'd go something like a 2.5" lukey performance flow. it's an oval muffler and not a cannon, so should help reduce police attention. also being an oval muffler it will be a touch quieter than a cannon. i recently got one put on my SSS pulsar and along with 2.25" piping (and 2.5" muffler) it is quieter than the old 2" system that was on there with a smaller bodied 2" oval muffler. also shouldn't cost that much to get fitted. i was quoted $120 for muffler and fitting at my local muffler place, but ended up being a bit more cause i got the extra piping done (ended up being $170 all up)

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted

I love magnaflow mufflers, look and sound. Oval straight through centre offset, they're a mandrel preforated pipe that are fibreglass packed and use absorption to reduce noise, and that type of muffler (straight through) gives the best performance (minimal backpressure).

I've got a satin stainless one at the rear, and the biggest (longest) hotdog resonater i can find before the diff. It's a 3" system on my RB30DE, sounds unreal, you'd obviously be after a 2.5" though.

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/univers....asp?shape=oval

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd...ain&id=8517

My car is quite loud (however its slightly different to a standard rb25de) but has absolutely no drone, it just rumbles down low and screams with revs. I'll change the hotdog to a centre/center straight through at somepoint, just to quieten it down so its more street drivable (when i want to street drive it, down the track).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...