Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually the original form of the GT2860RS was with the 0.86 A/R turbine housing . Many at Garrett in the US reckoned that if it didn't have the larger ratio turbine housing it wasn't a real DP turbo . They also said that HKS was silly not to have had a 0.86 A/R turbine housing available for the GT2530 .

Anyhow like most things in the GT25/GT28 families the hard bit is finding a T3 flanged turbine housing to make them bolt onto RB exhaust manifolds . HKS have them in 0.64 A/R and Garrett don't do any T3 flanged housings for them at all .

A .

Yes that is correct, Garrett don't make any T3 housings for them but both Sonic and AVO do. The sonic housings are a cleaner casting though.

Have bolted a couple of these on to RB20's now so no comparison of response can be made against a 25 but I can tell you now that when the power curve from the Disco was overlayed against the factory turbo, they run on top of each other until the disco starts shooting up over the top of it when the 20 turbo runs out of puff.

Roughly $1900 for the disco with a Sonic housing, water and oil line kit, adaptors and new studs all over. It even matches the power output of a highflow but has the response of a factory turbo.

EDIT: The Sonic housings are 0.73 also

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how far do they run ontop of eachother? i would hope an upgrade turbo would be far superior, not slightly.

its hardly worth the outlay if until 5000rpm its as good as stock and from 5 up its making more power. one would hope that there is a significant gain from the point where power comes in and up, not just from where the stock turbo falls over.

Hey guys

cheers for all the info good to see everyone putting the bit in:) i've got a bit to think about then, i'll speak to Stao.

A bit off topic but i've just measured my cams out of my neo and i have

Inlet 86mm

exhaust 82mm

That means they are gtr cams, why would they do that? obvoiusly better performance!

Standard neo are

inlet 84mm

exhaust 87mm

Just wondering if i replace the original cams in the second hand motor im going to put in, with the gtr cams and disconnect the vct is that all i have to do to make it work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...