Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Sound Control Exhaust

Bis-e Bee
 Share

Recommended Posts

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
awesome work dude!

i told you to bring it over to my place 1 year ago for me to look at lol

good you got it all working. i love fixing factory options that compliance disable. ohh and everyones FYI, the timing circuit for the cold pack are in all the cars. my mirrors just plugged in with the switch etc.........

what timing circuit for what cold pack features?

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah... me too.... eh?? what you talkin' willis.

I assume you are referring to M35's, but what can we activate in regards to the cold pack features?

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

well, all the wiring for the said cold pack is in the car. all thats missing is the switch (down next to the headlight heigh adjuster) and the actual heater units, ie the heated glass in the mirrors, and the heater thing that is on the inside of the front and rear windscreens.

the circuit works on a momentary switch, i have no idea how long it activates the heaters for (well its actually just power to the relevant devices) but it just worked on my car when i plugged it all in! i was quite surprised when i saw the plug for the switch taped up and it fitted in the plug and lit up the light!

ill take pics when im back in the country. from memory it had a brown surround for the wire, but im not 100% on thata

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted
The muffler side of things are fine, the problem is definatly the way the cable is wrapped around the motor in the back of the cabin. Just looks like maybe it has become unhooked and is not working correctly now.

If you have too much hassle just give me a hollar but the cable should only have one correct way to go so hopefully once you get that the way it should be all will be functioning and the neighbours will be happy at 5am when you are driving lol

I had another play with it, the muffler side *looked* fine but thats where the problem was, it'd basically siezed up and when you hit 'Silent' it puts more slack in to the cable but the pulley didnt do anything with it (I assume its spring loaded but either way, nothing happens). I gave it a half turn on the nut you can see in the pic, and that picked up the slack from Silent mode. I cant toggle it, but its in Silent mode now and its made a world of difference. Theres no drone when holding the car at 2k rpm now, which will definately make the missus happy :)

I'll hopefully be getting a mate to give me a hand with some suspension stuff soon, so when its up on the hoist I'll see if I can't get the unit to work nicely with the switch!

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had another play with it, the muffler side *looked* fine but thats where the problem was, it'd basically siezed up and when you hit 'Silent' it puts more slack in to the cable but the pulley didnt do anything with it (I assume its spring loaded but either way, nothing happens). I gave it a half turn on the nut you can see in the pic, and that picked up the slack from Silent mode. I cant toggle it, but its in Silent mode now and its made a world of difference. Theres no drone when holding the car at 2k rpm now, which will definately make the missus happy :)

I'll hopefully be getting a mate to give me a hand with some suspension stuff soon, so when its up on the hoist I'll see if I can't get the unit to work nicely with the switch!

Ahh that will explain why the cable inside the back of the car didn't appear to retract, only to gather up. Are you still 100% sure the issue isn't in the motor area of the unit, if it's not pushing the cable through the cable can't retract, i can't see how the cable can get stuck, see if you can push the cable from inside the back of the car. something still didn't look right at that end.

It makes heaps of difference especially late at night and early in the morning. unlike you i was locked in silent mode for a year, i'm really enjoying the sports mode now ;)

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
well, all the wiring for the said cold pack is in the car. all thats missing is the switch (down next to the headlight heigh adjuster) and the actual heater units, ie the heated glass in the mirrors, and the heater thing that is on the inside of the front and rear windscreens.

the circuit works on a momentary switch, i have no idea how long it activates the heaters for (well its actually just power to the relevant devices) but it just worked on my car when i plugged it all in! i was quite surprised when i saw the plug for the switch taped up and it fitted in the plug and lit up the light!

ill take pics when im back in the country. from memory it had a brown surround for the wire, but im not 100% on thata

Dude, go back to page 1 of this thread and you will find a series of photo's I took inside the switch and cable area of my car. There is a "spare" brown plug grouped together with another brown plug (that is actually plugged in to something), it's got 4 or 5 female pins. The other spare cable i noticed is a two row job in white on the right hand side that goes nowhere, is it either of these? If so let's get some switches working and hook this feature up, especially coming in to winter. I plan to do a road trip to canberra in a month or so.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It is a Nissan OEM part and for sale brand new here:

http://www.upgarage.com/upgarage/stock/1/2/0909153004579/153

￥69,900

Interesting stuff, thank you for posting your findings up :D

I had searched for quiet a while trying to find pics of the system :)

I was hoping it was a cat back set-up but looks like it is just the muffler, which means the rest of my system is more than likely stock :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • patrickxdf12
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By patrickxdf12 · Posted

      Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Murray_Calavera
      WTAC 2025

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Ozdavroz
      WTAC 2025

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...