Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Sound Control Exhaust

Bis-e Bee
 Share

Recommended Posts

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
awesome work dude!

i told you to bring it over to my place 1 year ago for me to look at lol

good you got it all working. i love fixing factory options that compliance disable. ohh and everyones FYI, the timing circuit for the cold pack are in all the cars. my mirrors just plugged in with the switch etc.........

what timing circuit for what cold pack features?

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah... me too.... eh?? what you talkin' willis.

I assume you are referring to M35's, but what can we activate in regards to the cold pack features?

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

well, all the wiring for the said cold pack is in the car. all thats missing is the switch (down next to the headlight heigh adjuster) and the actual heater units, ie the heated glass in the mirrors, and the heater thing that is on the inside of the front and rear windscreens.

the circuit works on a momentary switch, i have no idea how long it activates the heaters for (well its actually just power to the relevant devices) but it just worked on my car when i plugged it all in! i was quite surprised when i saw the plug for the switch taped up and it fitted in the plug and lit up the light!

ill take pics when im back in the country. from memory it had a brown surround for the wire, but im not 100% on thata

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted
The muffler side of things are fine, the problem is definatly the way the cable is wrapped around the motor in the back of the cabin. Just looks like maybe it has become unhooked and is not working correctly now.

If you have too much hassle just give me a hollar but the cable should only have one correct way to go so hopefully once you get that the way it should be all will be functioning and the neighbours will be happy at 5am when you are driving lol

I had another play with it, the muffler side *looked* fine but thats where the problem was, it'd basically siezed up and when you hit 'Silent' it puts more slack in to the cable but the pulley didnt do anything with it (I assume its spring loaded but either way, nothing happens). I gave it a half turn on the nut you can see in the pic, and that picked up the slack from Silent mode. I cant toggle it, but its in Silent mode now and its made a world of difference. Theres no drone when holding the car at 2k rpm now, which will definately make the missus happy :)

I'll hopefully be getting a mate to give me a hand with some suspension stuff soon, so when its up on the hoist I'll see if I can't get the unit to work nicely with the switch!

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had another play with it, the muffler side *looked* fine but thats where the problem was, it'd basically siezed up and when you hit 'Silent' it puts more slack in to the cable but the pulley didnt do anything with it (I assume its spring loaded but either way, nothing happens). I gave it a half turn on the nut you can see in the pic, and that picked up the slack from Silent mode. I cant toggle it, but its in Silent mode now and its made a world of difference. Theres no drone when holding the car at 2k rpm now, which will definately make the missus happy :)

I'll hopefully be getting a mate to give me a hand with some suspension stuff soon, so when its up on the hoist I'll see if I can't get the unit to work nicely with the switch!

Ahh that will explain why the cable inside the back of the car didn't appear to retract, only to gather up. Are you still 100% sure the issue isn't in the motor area of the unit, if it's not pushing the cable through the cable can't retract, i can't see how the cable can get stuck, see if you can push the cable from inside the back of the car. something still didn't look right at that end.

It makes heaps of difference especially late at night and early in the morning. unlike you i was locked in silent mode for a year, i'm really enjoying the sports mode now ;)

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
well, all the wiring for the said cold pack is in the car. all thats missing is the switch (down next to the headlight heigh adjuster) and the actual heater units, ie the heated glass in the mirrors, and the heater thing that is on the inside of the front and rear windscreens.

the circuit works on a momentary switch, i have no idea how long it activates the heaters for (well its actually just power to the relevant devices) but it just worked on my car when i plugged it all in! i was quite surprised when i saw the plug for the switch taped up and it fitted in the plug and lit up the light!

ill take pics when im back in the country. from memory it had a brown surround for the wire, but im not 100% on thata

Dude, go back to page 1 of this thread and you will find a series of photo's I took inside the switch and cable area of my car. There is a "spare" brown plug grouped together with another brown plug (that is actually plugged in to something), it's got 4 or 5 female pins. The other spare cable i noticed is a two row job in white on the right hand side that goes nowhere, is it either of these? If so let's get some switches working and hook this feature up, especially coming in to winter. I plan to do a road trip to canberra in a month or so.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It is a Nissan OEM part and for sale brand new here:

http://www.upgarage.com/upgarage/stock/1/2/0909153004579/153

￥69,900

Interesting stuff, thank you for posting your findings up :D

I had searched for quiet a while trying to find pics of the system :)

I was hoping it was a cat back set-up but looks like it is just the muffler, which means the rest of my system is more than likely stock :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...