Jump to content
SAU Community

Exedy 5 Puck Button

Granthem
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey dude. Yeh its holding well.

First to second flat change = all of second skating up the road left to right haha.

I know Exedy to a higher pressure plate spring again, so you could upspec it another level.

I think Exedy rate mine to 350kw at the fly... but as with all performance mods, its probably conservative. Joey is running loads of power through his!

driftmeister Community Regular

driftmeister

Posted
Posted
Hey dude. Yeh its holding well.

First to second flat change = all of second skating up the road left to right haha.

I know Exedy to a higher pressure plate spring again, so you could upspec it another level.

I think Exedy rate mine to 350kw at the fly... but as with all performance mods, its probably conservative. Joey is running loads of power through his!

That the power im looking at 350kw, do you think the 3 or 5 puck Exedy can hold that power? Currently using the HKS Twin Plate, due to daily city driving it gets worn out really fast. Not sure because it's on it's 3rd plate change that the pressure plate is not holding it nicely anymore.

Btw my driving style is very conservative and have not done any burn ever before.

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That the power im looking at 350kw, do you think the 3 or 5 puck Exedy can hold that power? Currently using the HKS Twin Plate, due to daily city driving it gets worn out really fast. Not sure because it's on it's 3rd plate change that the pressure plate is not holding it nicely anymore.

Btw my driving style is very conservative and have not done any burn ever before.

Really, 3 plate changes. In how many KM's? If you are wearing plates out that quick a button might also wear out quickly. Thats strange.

I think the 3 puck is rated abit higher from memory, but I didn''t really look into it because I didn't think it was needed with 260rwkw.

Are you sure oil isn't contaminating your HKS clutch? Causing it to slip

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

well i bought mine direct from exedy and they were the ones that spec'd it for me but apparently its pretty much an HHHDBC

i run 320rwkw through mine and exedy were given my power and torque specs and were 100% that it would eeeeeeeeeasily hold it

so far its done 2 motorkhana days + a bunch of DD and is still like the day i bought it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...