Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks, I am looking at buying this skyline which I believe has been wound back in ks. It is immaculate, beautiful paint, interior, had a machanic check it over inc comp test and its come up great.

the car has 86,500 on the clock and drives as if it does (no logbooks of course!)

on the timing cover it has a silver sticker on the timing cover that says 100,000ks with some japenese writing, does this mean the timing belt was done at 100 or due at 100?

the car is auction grade 4.

what sort of milage do these things get wound back when imported? 10,000, 20,000 or as much as 100,000? i will buy it based on its condition, everything is great but im trying to work out weather it needs a timing belt or not?

ps im looking to do a full service, are latinum ngks the go? what about the nulon 10w40 synthetic oil with a drift filter? excuse the silly question about servicing but have always been a falcon man so still new to the lines!

thanks!

The sticker means it has had its 100'000km service, the mileage at which that service was done should be handwritten on the sticker. Not uncommon for alot of Japanese exports to have their 100k km service done 10-15k early.

If it's running all sweet, in immaculate condition, and has good compression test results then that's all you really need.

Air con still working is another sign of genuine low KMs

sorry mate forgot to add that, its a 1997 series 2 r33 manual gts-t

well the aircon is very cold so thats a good sign.

the sticker on the timing cover is silver, about 5-6cm wide by 2cm tall. it is printed and has soem japenese writing and 100,000 printed on it. this means that maybe the car does have genuine ks? (that is if this is a sticker to guide you on when to do the belt? the car is otherwise immaculate! honestly paint, interior, driveline... perfect so maybe it is the case.

so basically this sticker means its due at 100? is it safe to leave it to 100 or should it be done early? (note it has 86 onthe clock at the moment)

also it is a 40th anniversary M- spec. does anyone know what makes and m spec or 40th ann. edition different to the rest?

thanks in advance!!

Yeah, doesn't mean anything related to the age or wear of the car, its just a reminder to change it. I bought my car at similar amount of kms and got the importer to change the belt, theres no harm in changing it early but alot of bad things can happen if it snaps..... something you should look into doing soon.

Seriously, the only thing I would look out for to check if the Ks are geniune is

1) if dials line up (100% you'll be able to tell)

2) engine condition (hard to tell because of history on how its been driven but so long as it's good, doesnt matter)

3) wear and tear (again, hard to tell because of history. You wouldnt know how rough the previous owner is or if he/she got shitloads of rings on his fingers which explains the wearing on gear knob and steering wheel).

So realistically, you can only be certain about no.1. And as mentioned, even with logbooks you'll cant be 100% sure too.

also is there any brand of belt/tensioner that is recommended as being a better one? what roughly would i be expecting to pay so i dont get ripped off

thanks!

If you aint sure do the timing belt, idler pulleys and waterpump all at the same time , just on age they should be done.

As a note if you just do the belt you will, in short order, find you are back doing the idler pulleys and shortly after that, woops, back again doing the water pump.

If you don't intend to flog the crap out of you car mercilessly the Nissan OE parts are as good as most and far superior to many aftermarket parts and frequently more cost efficient, though you will find that you can get OE timing belt kits of Fleebay with genuine parts for less money (by a fair amount) than you would pay from an authorised dealer

Theres a post on here its somewhere in FAQs , do a search, that lists all the stuff that should be done on the 80 and 100000 ks sevice , it's not for the faint hearted of wallet if you do everything and I'm saying that from experiance , there are 28 basic items not all of which involve money for parts-- ah hem.

I'm just at the last two items on this list which are the 02 sensor = $260.00 and the internal air/pollen filters = $260.

Edited by BASHO
Seriously, the only thing I would look out for to check if the Ks are geniune is

1) if dials line up (100% you'll be able to tell)

2) engine condition (hard to tell because of history on how its been driven but so long as it's good, doesnt matter)

3) wear and tear (again, hard to tell because of history. You wouldnt know how rough the previous owner is or if he/she got shitloads of rings on his fingers which explains the wearing on gear knob and steering wheel).

So realistically, you can only be certain about no.1. And as mentioned, even with logbooks you'll cant be 100% sure too.

that doesn't mean that someone (possibly the importer or even back in japan) hasn't bought a lower km cluster and stuck that in.

to be honest, just ignore the kms as there is probably a 70% chance they aren't genuine. judge the car by what condition it is in and then if you buy it get the timing belt done just to be on the safe side. for all you know the car could have 130,000kms on it and still be on the original belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...