Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys have a problem where the revs would drop when id use the brakes, just before id used the brakes then it would stall and lost all power (ALL electrics) to the car wif the battery still connected, tried a few batteries but no change.

has anyone encounted this problem

HELP

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319822-car-stalling-when-foot-on-brake/
Share on other sites

rev drop with brakes would be linked to the fact that our brakes are 'power assist brakes'. ie they use the vacuum from the engine to help you push down the pedal.

there should be a hose from your brake booster to the intake plenum which provides the vacuum. if this hose is cracked/ damaged/ your brake booster is broken then when you press the pedal, it's letting air into your engine that the ecu doesn't know about, which leans out the mixture and the engine dies.

is the electric issue a direct result of the brakes/ engine issue? your wording there seems a bit unclear to me. after braking the engine dies and electrics die? or before stalling but after braking?

well first of all if id hit the brakes the revs would just drop. later on in the day id do it again and it stalled the engine and i notice the clock was off, so i thort my battery terminals were loose, (they have not been on properly all day) but connected them up properly and still nothing. so i think iv blown some fuse/relay for my positive terminal or main power??

well first of all if id hit the brakes the revs would just drop. later on in the day id do it again and it stalled the engine and i notice the clock was off, so i thort my battery terminals were loose, (they have not been on properly all day) but connected them up properly and still nothing. so i think iv blown some fuse/relay for my positive terminal or main power??

Like tiberis said, rev drop can be caused by leaking vacuum hose between booster and plenum... used to happen to me in my -33 when I had a busted hose. I'd be almost 100% certain that's what's causing that. As for the power thing..... wouldn't have a clue, I can't thing of anything brake-related that'd do that, apart from maybe a short in the brake light wiring? But I wouldn't have thought that'd knock out all electricals in the car.

I'd just start picking through your fuses looking for a blown one to begin with.... never know, it could be a wild coincidence, blowing a main fuse and engine stalling due to vacuum leak at the same time.

I'm no expert, that's just what it looks like from where I sit :-)

+1 for checking fuses.

It says you have an S13, so fuses are behind the kick panel in the driver's foot well and there are some main ones in the engine bay near the battery.

check over both sets for any that are dead/ look funny. most of the major electrics ones are in the engine bay set. (there should be a translation diagram floating around the silviawa.com forums, otherwise i have one and can post it up here for you).

faulty brake wiring *should* just blow a fuse, but if some one has gone to the effort of making them dodgy then who knows.

i would check the connectors to your battery as well, you have mentioned they are/ were loose. make sure there is no corrosion (powdery white stuff) around the terminals and make sure that when the terminal is on it's the right way up (yes, the terminals have a taper and are thicker at the bottom than the top) and that there is no carbon build up from any arcing that may have occurred when loose. also make sure the negative/ ground cable is fixed securely at terminal and engine.

It's your brake booster hose or your brake booster is busted internally causing vacum leak.

I'm talking from experience having had a similar issue in my 83' Bluebird and the fundamentals R34 vacum isn't too much different too - So I imagine the the S13 will be quite similar.

- Change the hose first (cheapest and obvious) see if it fixes the problem - while you are at it change all the vacum lines - one thing I notice is that all the vacum systems are interconnected in some way - so a busted vacum hose in another spot could cause issues elsewhere in the car.

- Change your brake booster with a re-cond. or brand new one.

*IF* th issue is electrical.

- Check for lose connections.

- Ensure all grounding wire are connected.

- Check all fuses.

- Check for frayed wires - there could be an elecrical component that could be arcing when you apply the brake - brake light system is arcing somewhere in the body.

- If you have checked the basics above or unsure - best take it to an auto electrician.

seem to have solved it

charge the battery over night, took a part of my 180 positive batter terminal the red plug, and seem to have fix it, but the one off the 32 looks visualy ok, so will have to clean the connection and retry it, as for the brake issue, it had alot of air in the lines, so i bled the brakes and all seems ok, no dramatic rev drop, and perfect starting up.

just a matter of stupid little stuff,

thanks to all for the input

:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...