Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys have a problem where the revs would drop when id use the brakes, just before id used the brakes then it would stall and lost all power (ALL electrics) to the car wif the battery still connected, tried a few batteries but no change.

has anyone encounted this problem

HELP

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319822-car-stalling-when-foot-on-brake/
Share on other sites

rev drop with brakes would be linked to the fact that our brakes are 'power assist brakes'. ie they use the vacuum from the engine to help you push down the pedal.

there should be a hose from your brake booster to the intake plenum which provides the vacuum. if this hose is cracked/ damaged/ your brake booster is broken then when you press the pedal, it's letting air into your engine that the ecu doesn't know about, which leans out the mixture and the engine dies.

is the electric issue a direct result of the brakes/ engine issue? your wording there seems a bit unclear to me. after braking the engine dies and electrics die? or before stalling but after braking?

well first of all if id hit the brakes the revs would just drop. later on in the day id do it again and it stalled the engine and i notice the clock was off, so i thort my battery terminals were loose, (they have not been on properly all day) but connected them up properly and still nothing. so i think iv blown some fuse/relay for my positive terminal or main power??

well first of all if id hit the brakes the revs would just drop. later on in the day id do it again and it stalled the engine and i notice the clock was off, so i thort my battery terminals were loose, (they have not been on properly all day) but connected them up properly and still nothing. so i think iv blown some fuse/relay for my positive terminal or main power??

Like tiberis said, rev drop can be caused by leaking vacuum hose between booster and plenum... used to happen to me in my -33 when I had a busted hose. I'd be almost 100% certain that's what's causing that. As for the power thing..... wouldn't have a clue, I can't thing of anything brake-related that'd do that, apart from maybe a short in the brake light wiring? But I wouldn't have thought that'd knock out all electricals in the car.

I'd just start picking through your fuses looking for a blown one to begin with.... never know, it could be a wild coincidence, blowing a main fuse and engine stalling due to vacuum leak at the same time.

I'm no expert, that's just what it looks like from where I sit :-)

+1 for checking fuses.

It says you have an S13, so fuses are behind the kick panel in the driver's foot well and there are some main ones in the engine bay near the battery.

check over both sets for any that are dead/ look funny. most of the major electrics ones are in the engine bay set. (there should be a translation diagram floating around the silviawa.com forums, otherwise i have one and can post it up here for you).

faulty brake wiring *should* just blow a fuse, but if some one has gone to the effort of making them dodgy then who knows.

i would check the connectors to your battery as well, you have mentioned they are/ were loose. make sure there is no corrosion (powdery white stuff) around the terminals and make sure that when the terminal is on it's the right way up (yes, the terminals have a taper and are thicker at the bottom than the top) and that there is no carbon build up from any arcing that may have occurred when loose. also make sure the negative/ ground cable is fixed securely at terminal and engine.

It's your brake booster hose or your brake booster is busted internally causing vacum leak.

I'm talking from experience having had a similar issue in my 83' Bluebird and the fundamentals R34 vacum isn't too much different too - So I imagine the the S13 will be quite similar.

- Change the hose first (cheapest and obvious) see if it fixes the problem - while you are at it change all the vacum lines - one thing I notice is that all the vacum systems are interconnected in some way - so a busted vacum hose in another spot could cause issues elsewhere in the car.

- Change your brake booster with a re-cond. or brand new one.

*IF* th issue is electrical.

- Check for lose connections.

- Ensure all grounding wire are connected.

- Check all fuses.

- Check for frayed wires - there could be an elecrical component that could be arcing when you apply the brake - brake light system is arcing somewhere in the body.

- If you have checked the basics above or unsure - best take it to an auto electrician.

seem to have solved it

charge the battery over night, took a part of my 180 positive batter terminal the red plug, and seem to have fix it, but the one off the 32 looks visualy ok, so will have to clean the connection and retry it, as for the brake issue, it had alot of air in the lines, so i bled the brakes and all seems ok, no dramatic rev drop, and perfect starting up.

just a matter of stupid little stuff,

thanks to all for the input

:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...