Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys n girls,

Im selling my pioneer cdj 1000 mk3 cd turntables. they are about 1 year old and are in very good condition.

Both have been kept in a roadcase and stay at home. Never been out of my room.

Very reliable. they are still the club and industry standard and preferred cd turntables.

I am looking to get $2300 for the pair or sold separately for $1200. (I bought them for 1800 each a year ago)

They have both recently been serviced and work great.

They do not make this model anymore but djwarehouse still have them for almost $2000 each so i think my price is reasonable.

The cdj 1000's are now a part of cdj history and any dj starting out or continuing would love to have them.

I still have original box and booklets to send them out or get them picked up in and with all cables that came in the box.

PM me or call me on 0422464760 for more info.

my name is Robbie

pics will be up later tonight.

P.S I also have a denon s3000 cd turntable for sale that was recently serviced. It is great for scratching as it has the active platter function.

they dont make this deck anymore either and it is one of the first active platter cd players ever released.

Denon is a top brand and you cant go wrong if you love your cd turntables and love to scratch on them.

I am looking at around $450 for this cd turntable. bought it 2 years ago for $1400

Edited by R34-2NV
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320499-2xcdj1000-mk3-pioneer-cd-players/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
now willing to sell the dns 3000 with postage for $400

let me know, like i said its in good condition

if you can do it for $350 i'll take it.

ive got them on ebay mate but for some reason i cant post new threads on inthemix forums.

yeah i know they are cheap but people really dont look to pay for what things are worth these days and are always out for a bargain so i guess thats why ive put them up for so cheap.

ive got them on ebay mate but for some reason i cant post new threads on inthemix forums.

yeah i know they are cheap but people really dont look to pay for what things are worth these days and are always out for a bargain so i guess thats why ive put them up for so cheap.

yeah you need 50 post before you can post in for sale on inthemix.

wish i had the cash i want to get some of these before they phase out.. my cdj800s are getting boring and old...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...