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yeah.. the thermostat is a new one. I had it changed last time a few months back when a hose on the inlet manifold blew up. It looks like it might be one of the heater hoses of the block. Any ideas on the ebst way to attack it? I was thinking of just pulling all the intake manifold off and stuff, and getting heaps of room to work with, and just changing all the hoses myself with new hoses from the auto store.

1. Every time I switch the ignition off the engine keeps on running for anywhere between 30sec & 2minutes. "After a few months of driving took it for a service & they fixed it...(nice guys didn't even charge me) they said it was something called a turbo timer & just ripped it out :D

2. Occassionally after a few drinks, I use to jump into the car & notice the dash & steering wheel are gone & moved over to the (as we know it) passenger side. I now realised that I was in the 56 thunderbird left hand drive :)

3. Dunno bout you guys, but does your fuel cap swap sides. Sometimes I go to fill up & could have sworn black & blue the cap was on my drivers side :confused:

WHAT!!!!! you got a turbo timer ripped out of the car????

Are you or they shot in the head, a turbo timer will extend the life on your turbo by allowing it to cool down, after driving or hard driving.

Basicly by you ripping it out you now have to wait at your car till the turbo cools down, this can be a long time by the way, the harder you drive your car the hotter the turbo gets thus the longer it takes to wind down and cool down.

If you stopped the car dead straight away after hard driving your turbo can't cool down and the metal can get worpped or crack etc.

Basicly your've cost your self either big money or a few hundred dollors in buying a new one and getting it installed again.

Very bad bad move there I'm affriad.

well.. mine seems to over heat every so often.. it'll be fine for a while.. then boom.. it will sky rocket to the H mark and steam will piss out every where. I just had the system checked etc because it shat itself a while ago... damn thing.. just did it again tonight..

Check your oil levels.

well.. mine seems to over heat every so often.. it'll be fine for a while.. then boom.. it will sky rocket to the H mark and steam will piss out every where. I just had the system checked etc because it shat itself a while ago... damn thing.. just did it again tonight..

Check your oil levels.

Zagan - turbo timers are a waste of time/money when fitted to a car such as the skyline thats turbo chargers are both oil and water cooled. Letting the car idle for two minutes is simply a waste of fuel but your mates might think its cool that you can lock your car and walk away with the engine still running. To add insult to injury the first thing a would be car thief will look for is a turbo timer, it gives them easy access to the engines direct power feed.

turbo timers should be sold in a kit with monster tachos, alloy pedal covers and those nice windscreen squirters with integrated lights.

Ben

I disagree. The best thing is to cruise in gently for the last couple of kays and gave a minute of idle down yourself, but society just isn't like that. The return water line from the turbo can still be bubbling even after a 1:20 idle down which means the turbo is still hot enough to boil water, and that is dangerously close to too hot for oil. even so, oil remaining static can coke in the bearing region which can be somewhat abrasive, leading to shorter turbo life.

The answer is the timer in that case, but the best answer is a good sympathetic driver.

just don't fang your car around just before you park it. Or try to get a turbo timer that's hidden away and does not make obnoxious beeping noises to herald its presence to the poeple in the next suburb (talkin bout turbo timers sold in Autobarn).

skylinegeoff - I agree with your comments, but i wasn't advocating drifting into your driveway on 20psi then shutting the car down immediately. IMO 10 - 20 secs cooldown is more than enough - hardly justifies the need for a turbo timer however some people just love gadgets, each to their own.

I'm an Engineer...we call them options :D

Still you would be surprised how long it actually takes to remove the heat buildup. And when you turn off the temp will often rise as the steady state condition has changed and there is a slower heat loss. You would find this to be true if you placed a thermocouple on the turbine housing.

I will suggest you are playing with fire if you drive for more than 30 mins anywhere and then shut down that fast, even taking it easy the last few kays. 60 sec would be a minimum. Mine (turbo timer) runs off the injector duty cycle and calculates the time I have driven harder then runs the car down while I get my stuff together. Usually 1:20 is the time but it has done over 2:00 when I have been for a fang and shut down.

Anyway, back on topic. I had some rough running at 2500 rpm as the car warmed and it was pretty bad. Since it has just been balanced and rebuilt it was unlikely to be a balance issue at a resonant frequency.

After some retuning and a hard run at the track last weekend....all is fine

WIERD.

"Mine (turbo timer) runs off the injector duty cycle and calculates the time I have driven harder then runs the car down while I get my stuff together."

So what happens when you go for a 30 min drive, pushing it hard for the first twenty minutes then cruise the last ten. Your calculator will determine that your injector duty cycle has been running at near its max for 2/3 the time but because you cruised the last 1/3 in reality your temps are down. Your turbo timer may think it needs a lengthy cooldown in this situation. Your own brain is a better real world calculator of what has transpired. While you're 'getting your stuff together' you can let the car cool then simply turn the key off when you leave the vehicle.

my turbo timer still plays up.. its the apexi pen style one.. wen i disconnect the battery (resetting ecu) the turbo timer works on the first 10 times, after around then it starts to play up,, like works wen ever it wants.. some times doesnt work sometimes does.. i have tried every thing, re wiring it up and all, solder it properly just doesnt like me :(

i have earthed the handbrake wire, wired it up to the handbrake everything,..

not a loose connection cos it shows every thing on the lights,, ohh well i guess we all have our hick ups..

and sometime i have to knock my door before the window will go up...

i i go 2 drive my car, with in 5 minutes of it first running, when you put the clutch in the revs go up 2 1500

goes away as soon as its warm,

i was playing with intake manifold a while ago, i think maybe it could be my tps sensor needing 2 be reset, can anyone confirm this?

Light annoying bumping noise from the back left of the car, its not a big noise, but with no music on it gets really annoying.

Ive limited it to these things;

Rear Bar is loose - Its stock and im getting VS rear bar soon anyway.

Top Suspension bolt is loose - However i checked this awhile ago and it was fine.. also Fulcrum had the car to install some things and said everything is fine.

Parcel shelf - Most likely the culprit

  • 3 months later...

This confuses me rather than annoys, but :

Every Time I put the 'line into reverse, there is a loud 'beeping' coming from the dash area.

At first, i thought it was a parking radar or similar, but no-matter how close I reverse to a wall, the beeping is constant.

(This is only audible inside the car, but is at the same rate as a truck reverse beeping)

Grr!!!

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