Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Some Questions Answered..

smokin_skyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

smokin_skyline Apprentice

smokin_skyline

Posted
Posted

hey guys, lookin at gettin a 32 gtr from japan, found one for cheap to use as a race car, (thats all ill use it for, i have a work car) can it be licensed so i can drive it to a workshop or to the track and compete in targa events?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320813-need-some-questions-answered/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

strictly speaking yes you can import a race only vehicle and register it as a rally car and under that registration it can be driven to and from workshops and to and from events (be them circuit events or tarmac rally events like targa tasmania). if you think however you are getting a cheap road car and plan to use it as you please then think again, the rules are very strict on how you can and cannot use such a car. also to import one you will need a cams NR or NC (national rally or national circuit) licence, some competition history and a clear plan of competition for the car you aim to import. to be honest given that R32 GTRs are quite cheap to comply and the only cost difference between importing a race/rally car and a road car is compliance and rego I would just comply and register it. it will do wonders for the re-sale value of the car, and then you can drive it on the road whenever you please.

to consider buying a race only vehicle you'd want to be pretty serious about your motorsport as it's a lot of money for a car you can really only drive on the circuit or in events and you will NEVER be able to fully register the car as with a race/rally import approval it will never be able to be complied and no you cannot change than once the car is here.

smokin_skyline Apprentice

smokin_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
strictly speaking yes you can import a race only vehicle and register it as a rally car and under that registration it can be driven to and from workshops and to and from events (be them circuit events or tarmac rally events like targa tasmania). if you think however you are getting a cheap road car and plan to use it as you please then think again, the rules are very strict on how you can and cannot use such a car. also to import one you will need a cams NR or NC (national rally or national circuit) licence, some competition history and a clear plan of competition for the car you aim to import. to be honest given that R32 GTRs are quite cheap to comply and the only cost difference between importing a race/rally car and a road car is compliance and rego I would just comply and register it. it will do wonders for the re-sale value of the car, and then you can drive it on the road whenever you please.

to consider buying a race only vehicle you'd want to be pretty serious about your motorsport as it's a lot of money for a car you can really only drive on the circuit or in events and you will NEVER be able to fully register the car as with a race/rally import approval it will never be able to be complied and no you cannot change than once the car is here.

thanks, no i dont plan on drivin it daily. ive got a work car for that. ive worked in motorsport (namely drag racing) for the last couple of years. ideally i want to go drag racing, maybe go round a circuit.

Iron Chef - thanks heap mate, I can understand your quite busy, heard some good things about you, hopefully you can help me out!

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

drag racing is a tougher one. for some reason DOTARS don't see drag racing as motorsport. they pretty much consider tarmac rally and some national level circuit racing as acceptable motorsport. It certainly can be done though. but again, it's not the end of the world to import a 32 GTR and comply it. all the other costs (freight, broker, taxes, duties) are all the same regardles of whether it's a race import or a regular road use import. so the only cost saving in bringing it in as race use is compliance cost. once complied of course you can choose not to register it and just keep it as your race car, but the good thing is down the road if you decide to sell it or to drive it on the road it's a simple matter of just getting it registered. if it's race only import that option is forever closed.

in short, you can turn a complied car into a race car (and back again) but you can never turn a race/rally imported car into a complied (road) car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...