Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, lookin at gettin a 32 gtr from japan, found one for cheap to use as a race car, (thats all ill use it for, i have a work car) can it be licensed so i can drive it to a workshop or to the track and compete in targa events?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320813-need-some-questions-answered/
Share on other sites

strictly speaking yes you can import a race only vehicle and register it as a rally car and under that registration it can be driven to and from workshops and to and from events (be them circuit events or tarmac rally events like targa tasmania). if you think however you are getting a cheap road car and plan to use it as you please then think again, the rules are very strict on how you can and cannot use such a car. also to import one you will need a cams NR or NC (national rally or national circuit) licence, some competition history and a clear plan of competition for the car you aim to import. to be honest given that R32 GTRs are quite cheap to comply and the only cost difference between importing a race/rally car and a road car is compliance and rego I would just comply and register it. it will do wonders for the re-sale value of the car, and then you can drive it on the road whenever you please.

to consider buying a race only vehicle you'd want to be pretty serious about your motorsport as it's a lot of money for a car you can really only drive on the circuit or in events and you will NEVER be able to fully register the car as with a race/rally import approval it will never be able to be complied and no you cannot change than once the car is here.

strictly speaking yes you can import a race only vehicle and register it as a rally car and under that registration it can be driven to and from workshops and to and from events (be them circuit events or tarmac rally events like targa tasmania). if you think however you are getting a cheap road car and plan to use it as you please then think again, the rules are very strict on how you can and cannot use such a car. also to import one you will need a cams NR or NC (national rally or national circuit) licence, some competition history and a clear plan of competition for the car you aim to import. to be honest given that R32 GTRs are quite cheap to comply and the only cost difference between importing a race/rally car and a road car is compliance and rego I would just comply and register it. it will do wonders for the re-sale value of the car, and then you can drive it on the road whenever you please.

to consider buying a race only vehicle you'd want to be pretty serious about your motorsport as it's a lot of money for a car you can really only drive on the circuit or in events and you will NEVER be able to fully register the car as with a race/rally import approval it will never be able to be complied and no you cannot change than once the car is here.

thanks, no i dont plan on drivin it daily. ive got a work car for that. ive worked in motorsport (namely drag racing) for the last couple of years. ideally i want to go drag racing, maybe go round a circuit.

Iron Chef - thanks heap mate, I can understand your quite busy, heard some good things about you, hopefully you can help me out!

drag racing is a tougher one. for some reason DOTARS don't see drag racing as motorsport. they pretty much consider tarmac rally and some national level circuit racing as acceptable motorsport. It certainly can be done though. but again, it's not the end of the world to import a 32 GTR and comply it. all the other costs (freight, broker, taxes, duties) are all the same regardles of whether it's a race import or a regular road use import. so the only cost saving in bringing it in as race use is compliance cost. once complied of course you can choose not to register it and just keep it as your race car, but the good thing is down the road if you decide to sell it or to drive it on the road it's a simple matter of just getting it registered. if it's race only import that option is forever closed.

in short, you can turn a complied car into a race car (and back again) but you can never turn a race/rally imported car into a complied (road) car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...