Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bump

Fuel tank with sender and stuff 80 bucks

rear sub frame and diff 300

Series 2 passeger seat 50 bucks

back seat 80 bucks

door pannels and back interior pannels 120

Rh and Lh window glass 40 bucks for both

still heaps of stuff make offers need the shed space

Edited by blu hsv

Want this stuff gone i will sell the rest for 1300 and that is:

diff with cradle

fuel tank

front crossmember

power steering rack

a/c pump

brake booster and master cylinder

front hubs and top arms

interior minus drivers seat

dash pad

dash cluster

carpet

all door trims

roof lining

rh and lh glass

electric window regs

all door bits'

2 doors one needs repairs

steering collum

front rh gaurd

rear spoiler

rear bumper and reo

wiper arms wiper motor and linkage

full body loom

air bag set up and computer

have heaps more i need the space

basically whats left of the car

Edited by blu hsv
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
He man what have u still got left off the car? how much for the diff and everything else? and also i was the owner of the car until the roll over.

I threw out most of the stuff to the tip today. still have the side skirts and rear spoiler, rear bumper and a few other bits still have the diff make me an offer on it

He man what have u still got left off the car? how much for the diff and everything else? and also i was the owner of the car until the roll over.

I threw out most of the stuff to the tip today. still have the side skirts and rear spoiler, rear bumper and a few other bits still have the diff make me an offer on it

He man what have u still got left off the car? how much for the diff and everything else? and also i was the owner of the car until the roll over.

I threw out most of the stuff to the tip today. still have the side skirts and rear spoiler, rear bumper and a few other bits still have the diff make me an offer on it

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...