Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

36903_10150212796570131_778040130_13299301_6298926_n.jpg

both bumpers are in pretty shit shape, I'm gonna throw the factory bumpers on, from my project Ceffy

IMO these look better anyway, with the two vents to the side, rather than one big opening.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...-1247910577.jpg

Nooo. I painted up the other one today in Nissan 362 (crystal/arctic white), looks good painted white.

i think it'll look better with an auto trans fluid cooler off to the side :P, the other one is also longer at the lip and flares out more. :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Halfway through manual swap.

Now has black interior, the chord type stuff called "modern" in the brochures

Series 2/3 taillights fitted.

Pending hubs and brakes before it gets the R33 GTR 17"s on.

ibhx4w.jpg

Just wish it was going, for skids, cruising and new job :thumbsup:

Edited by Nic_A31
  • 2 weeks later...

Nic - looking buttery man, can't wait to see it with the S3 bumper :woot:

word of advice but - i see you have the same "door bump protectors" that i have - the white strips that run along the centre of the the doors... that are no longer "white" as they are turning that funny "poo / pink" colour

2175040__32055_thumb.jpg

^^^this stuff here - from bunnings and about $6 for a whole box... steel wool (mild steel)

pinch a bit off, dunk it in some water, and scrub away - don't go too rough though!!! the product will work it's own magic :laugh:

gets them looking brand new like mine :) (these bump strips were the fkn BANE of my existence till a few months ago!!!)

I used to get soooooooooooo annoyed cos my car would be that "fresH" arctic white with mirror like paint - but those strips would forever be this orangey bore water stained pinkish brown yuckyuck.

so get some and get that bit clean! it changes the look of the whole car - trust me! :D

Thanks dude....yeah they're alot worse than what they look like in this pic....they look atleast close to the paint because of the bright work light but in the flesh they're turning yellow, badly. I was thinking of painting them black, to match the strips (on the same level) on the bumpers...but will try that first.

Yeah I had a slight finger malfunction there.

My bad.

Nic got the engine from KYP, without the loom. Which should kinda NOT happen considering the computer needs to go with the engine.

f**kers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...