Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hEy guys I got a mech to put on my new rotors and pads on for all corners and at very low speeds about to stop at a red light or going to park I just hear squeeks and screeches so noticable that wen I go to pick up my friend they say they know I'm heere cuz of the noise... Just wondering what possible reasons this could be happening? They are all new and just put on last weekend rotors are rda slotted and pads are qfm pads

I think it was like $150 for the pads all up and somewhere around 500 for the rotors all up (I have to check around my pm's for exact prices shoot me a pm if u want exact values... I got them off this fourm aswell so if u search around u will find em.

hEy guys I got a mech to put on my new rotors and pads on for all corners and at very low speeds about to stop at a red light or going to park I just hear squeeks and screeches so noticable that wen I go to pick up my friend they say they know I'm heere cuz of the noise... Just wondering what possible reasons this could be happening? They are all new and just put on last weekend rotors are rda slotted and pads are qfm pads

I've got rda slotted and qfm pads. If they are the A1RM pads then being a performance pad they can squeak a little until you bed them in properly.

Even then I found the need to occassionally give them a single hard application to keep them absolutely quiet. Once you have tracked the car they seem to be ok from then on.

The other street only pad compounds should be fine with just a bed in procedure- Usually accelerate to 80kph then brake moderately till about 10kph. Do not stop instead repeat 80kph to 10kph braking at about 1minute intervals about 6-8 times and then drive around for a few more minutes to cool the brakes down.

If they still squeal your mechanic may have made a mistake in assembly of the anti rattle shims so take them back for him to have a look at.

I got new rotors and pads 12 months ago and mine still squeek, Ive had it fixed a couple of times and the squeeking goes away for a short time before its back again. May be the make of pad or something, I'm thinking of changing brand, maybe EBC or something, anyone suggest what they have that doesnt squeek?

hey guys, well today the brakes have no/very little squeek but tonight as im driving to my mates place when i press on the brake it feels very fient and i have to go 50%-80% in to get a good feel (but still feint) for the brakes - before i use to just tap my brakes and the car would slow down it feels like its dropped maybe 50% of its braking power - i cant/dont feel a solid feel when i put my foot down on the brake...also i dont feel as confident braking now as i did before with my old pads and brakes (i think i do have the a1rm qfm pads)......anyway from the can any1 share some insight to possibly wat might be wrong? cheers

that sounds like you might have air bubbles in the lines in which case you need to bleed your brakes, or your brake fluid might be stuffed and need a change? Im no expert but i made sure my fluid was changed when I did the front discs and pads on my 350gt

OR your mechanic put a large dob of Silicon anti squeel between the shim & pad :cheers:

I've used EBC pads & RDA slotted rotors for a few years now and have never had any problems with brake squeel. It's important to instal the supplied shims correctly and bed the brakes to manufacturers spec, as grae35 mentioned above.

hey guys, well today the brakes have no/very little squeek but tonight as im driving to my mates place when i press on the brake it feels very fient and i have to go 50%-80% in to get a good feel (but still feint) for the brakes - before i use to just tap my brakes and the car would slow down it feels like its dropped maybe 50% of its braking power - i cant/dont feel a solid feel when i put my foot down on the brake...also i dont feel as confident braking now as i did before with my old pads and brakes (i think i do have the a1rm qfm pads)......anyway from the can any1 share some insight to possibly wat might be wrong? cheers

also important to get the correct pads based on your usage. if u get race pads that are meant to operate at higher temps...chances are that cold braking will be sacrificed

I think it was like $150 for the pads all up and somewhere around 500 for the rotors all up (I have to check around my pm's for exact prices shoot me a pm if u want exact values... I got them off this fourm aswell so if u search around u will find em.

Hi thanks for your reply i'll have a scratch around the site thanks

I got new rotors and pads 12 months ago and mine still squeek, Ive had it fixed a couple of times and the squeeking goes away for a short time before its back again. May be the make of pad or something, I'm thinking of changing brand, maybe EBC or something, anyone suggest what they have that doesnt squeek?

Hi i'm looking at getting EBC ultimax rotors along with redstuff pads looks the part and good price cheaper in the USA than UK but frieght a killer from USA, i have part numbers if you interested,cheers

I used ferodo DS2500 pads on my 180sx which had R33 4 pots. Worked fine when cold and so much better when on the track. Where the pads that I had before would give up after 3 laps these ones just kept on working!

So for anyone who wants a good street/track day pad I highly recommend

DS2500 website link

Edited by 180 wanabe

sorry to hijack, but similar problem..

My brakes dont sqeak, but there is a noise when Im driving - Im guessing a pad is touching a rotor or something slightly on rotation as the noise gets faster at speed.

You cant hear it with the windows up, but when they are down it drives me crazy!!

any suggestions?

What does the noise sound like? Sometimes it can be put down to a stone or something similar stuck in your heatshield.

I have Project Mu HC+ and titanium shims...when I stop at traffic lights old ladies curse and children's heads explode. I argue that it's a good safety device, just to let everyone know that I'm around. :)

I agree could be a bearing, on the other hand it could be the backing plate touching on the outer circumfrence of the disc maybe whilest changing the pads etc your backing plate could have taken a tweeking, just maybe, check it out.I had it on my car but that,s because the way they stack the car's in the container they have to remove the wheels mine must have been on the bottom so it was sitting on the backing plate and they do cover the disc slightly so they bent with the wieght and were rubbing on the disc, hope you find the problem, cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...