Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Done The Tie Rod Ends On A '94 R33 Gtst And...

weSky
 Share

Recommended Posts

weSky Enthusiast

weSky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Over the weekend, I put new Tie Rod ends and Steering Rack boots on the S1 '94 R33 GTST and I think I have a few problems.

First off, the steering boots were easy to put on - I'm glad I got them done!

Now, here is the problem, I've fitted the tie rod ends (burson part number TE 926-14) and they seem to fit perfectly, with plenty of room to adjust for the alignment

BUT, I now have a huge issue and I'm not sure if it's the alignment (I know have I have to get one after removing the lock thread nut to replace the rack boots) or something has gone horribly wrong.

I've taken the car for a test drive and the steering feels really sloppy and lose (almost like there is no load on the tyres), the tyres squeal like mad (and are wearing on the outer edge) and the car, oddly enough, tends to drive in a straight line - which is really strange.

I've noticed that if I turn medium to hard right, the steering wheel wants to fling itself all the way to the right on its own.

I did a real quick alignment using string matched up with the untouched rear wheels, but this didn't seem to do anything at all.

Everything else on the car was functioning as normal prior to me swapping the tie rods ends.

The Tie rods as bolted in as part as they will go with the castle nut and that seems to be on par with the removed/old tie rod ends that had rotted rubbers.

Any thoughts?

I'm worried that its not the alignment as the steering behaviour is really odd and the tyers squealing madly with evident tyre wear on the outer edge on both tyres.

Cheers.

PS: The car is competely stock - only mod is a stereo and front sway bar.

Edited by weSky
BI6TIM Enthusiast

BI6TIM

Posted
Posted

What sort of tie rod ends did you put on it? It sounds to me like you've got too much toe in. I would definitely be having a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

If you live in Brisbane, bring it to me at City Suspension, Slacks Creek.

weSky Enthusiast

weSky

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What sort of tie rod ends did you put on it? It sounds to me like you've got too much toe in. I would definitely be having a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

If you live in Brisbane, bring it to me at City Suspension, Slacks Creek.

I used a Burson part number TE 926-14. They seem to fit perfectly and were a match up to the old ones, albeit maybe no more than 10mm short on the shaft/screw in part.

I'm hoping it's alignment, but if it is, it's really really bad!

Unfortunately, I'm down in Melb.

I'm not driving it as it is unsafe - but I will run it in to a workshop on Wednesday.

Cheers!

rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
Posted (edited)

how did u go with this? sounds strange as soon as i replaced my outer tie rod ends, my alignment was out but the steering felt more direct and firm.... and got rid of this small vibration i had at speed.... also r33 have a few different part numbers depending on series maybe you have the wrong part?

Edited by rgr34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...