Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 174
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

aahhh, don't ask dude.

we were having disputes with the trubo supplier and when we came to an agreement, the dude from garrett said that he'll send down a A/R .82 which should be fine, but they actually sent down the A/R .63, and before i knew it, it was already on the car.

i think it should be ok though as the same combo with a A/R .63 made ~260rwkw on an RB30ET at ~20psi.

if i'm not happy, i'll be sending it back to sydney and asking for a .82.

i think it should be ok though as the same combo with a A/R .63 made ~260rwkw on an RB30ET at ~20psi.

That was a little bit of interesting information. Interesting being the amount of extra boost required for the SOHC head on the 3ltr to make 260rwkw.

you're cool dude.

i actually found out from my friend yesterday that the car i mentioned actually ran 18-19psi when it made that power.

also, another car with that same turbo made 285rwkw on 24psi.

i guess the SOHC makes quite a difference to power as compared to DOHC.

actually, my 2L cossie engine (DOHC) made almost the same power a VL RB30ET (SOHC) would make with the same turbo on the same boost, so i'm happy.

btw, the VL i mentioned which made ~260rwkw with the GT3040 (A/R .63) has run an 11.67@115mph at calder park, and fyi, it's a 5 spd manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...