Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after reading about the damaging effects the wrong oil has on teh 8spd autos thought i would check before i do a service as to what i should be using...

10-40 engine oil

GL4 gearbox oil (6spd manual) ?? is this correct? should it be gl5?

is there any special fluids i HAVE to use for things such as power steering etc..???

sorry to ask, but i dont have a service manual :)

Edited by GeNOS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322098-what-fluids-for-a-service/
Share on other sites

after reading about the damaging effects the wrong oil has on teh 8spd autos thought i would check before i do a service as to what i should be using...

10-40 engine oil

GL4 gearbox oil (6spd manual) ?? is this correct? should it be gl5?

is there any special fluids i HAVE to use for things such as power steering etc..???

sorry to ask, but i dont have a service manual :rofl2:

If you want a free service manual ( full workshop actually) then grab this one I found several years ago for the G35 Infinity from the USA.

Some things are obvously different in a left hand drive and security radio etc is different but practically everything else mechanical is identical for our cars.

http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35

  • Like 1

Hi there guys, as for what type of fluid's to use for a service on your vehicle i would try to do as much homework as possible. I have a 250GT auto and it came with no handbook etc and to make it worse nissan weren't interested in helping me out at first so i went online and found a company called datamanuals they had a download version and a disc version for a Infiniti G35 so i bought it and once i had it i found all the info i needed but it is for the 3.5lt engine so anyway i started looking for the atf fluid which they state should only be genuine nissan matic-j or else say good bye to the box.So i went to nissan and they dont know of it ony matic-d but that was not compatible any way i carried on scratching around here and there till i found a number of compatable atf fluids eg mobil 1 syn, dia queen sp III,which is used by mitshubushi and KIA, and transmax j from castrol. I could only get the dia queen immidiately but i wasn't to sure if at all it was the correct fluid so i carried on looking for info on my nissan and found another manual come handbook from a company in nz which does translations from japanesse to english so i bought that book and when i got it i found out it was really a hand book more than anything else but very helpfull none the less and money well spent but now when i see there specs on the atf they state it to be matic-d hence i say you need to do your home work as for engine oil they say 5w-30 partial synthetic.I just double checked and for a vq25dd 4wd,vq30dd,vq35de coupe one must use matic-j.If you have a cvt vehicle vq35de,sedan, use nissan gen CVT fluid KTF-1.If you have a manual vq35de you need to use nissan gen manual transmission oil MP-G HQ(API;GL-4 SAE:75W-90). If any more info required and i can help i will,cheers

If you want a free service manual ( full workshop actually) then grab this one I found several years ago for the G35 Infinity from the USA.

Some things are obvously different in a left hand drive and security radio etc is different but practically everything else mechanical is identical for our cars.

http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35

sweet. thanks for that :)

  • 1 month later...

Now regardless if your a Nulon fan or not,

this is a good guide to use: http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp

Just specify car, nissan, then i went for 350z and it lists in categories ie motor, trans etc which oil you should use.

Just for precautionary sake,

when taking delivery of an import everyone says to do a "fluids service"...can anyone specify exactly what fluids? I know engine oil goes without saying, as does trans, diff and coolant. Is that all most people do or do they take it the step further and go brakes etc? Thanks.

Also wondering if one of the moderators could post a sticky for fluids to use, how many litres etc for those interested in doing their own servicing or experienced in doing so?

Engine Oil Fully Synthetic 10W40, 4-5 Litres

Manual Transmission Oil Fully Synthetic 75W85 (GL-4), ?Litres

Differential Oil Fully Synthetic 75W90 (GL-5), ? Litres

etc etc

Edited by TUFF_350
I'd be interested to know the same thing. Just purchased a v35 as well and I've done oil, but will need to drain the other fluids too. Mine is an auto, so maybe we can get auto trans capacities as well.

Hi there,

What oil did you use? Was it fully syn or semi? What V35 do you have?

Hey guys... just picked up my v35 coupe today. The dealer who helped me import the car said he has done a first service on the car (basically just oil and filter change). However, I note that the power steering fluid is a little low (still above minimum) and is brown in colour. Is this normal?

I am thinking of doing a top up myself now and get the fluid flush later when I send the car in for a service. You guys think this is a good idea? Also, is the colour of the fluid normal? Thanks.

And a separate question. I am keen to do a dip stick check on the engine oil. Is it rather hard to pull the dip stick out and put it back in? I tried pulling it out but it's abit hard (although I didn't really dare to pull too hard). May sound silly, but can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!

Don't know if this is a silly question or not but don't the compliance workshops change the important fluids for you as part of compliance? I took delivery of my v36 this week and the compliance workshop changed oil, oil/air/fuel filter, brake fluid etc.

According to my dealer, the compliance guy does a first service on the car which is just oil change and filter change. So don't think they will change the power steering fluid especially as I note it's not really below the minimum level but it's close to the minimum level (just slightly above the min line).

I've asked my dealer again n he assured me that they have done a first service.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...