Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after reading about the damaging effects the wrong oil has on teh 8spd autos thought i would check before i do a service as to what i should be using...

10-40 engine oil

GL4 gearbox oil (6spd manual) ?? is this correct? should it be gl5?

is there any special fluids i HAVE to use for things such as power steering etc..???

sorry to ask, but i dont have a service manual :)

Edited by GeNOS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322098-what-fluids-for-a-service/
Share on other sites

after reading about the damaging effects the wrong oil has on teh 8spd autos thought i would check before i do a service as to what i should be using...

10-40 engine oil

GL4 gearbox oil (6spd manual) ?? is this correct? should it be gl5?

is there any special fluids i HAVE to use for things such as power steering etc..???

sorry to ask, but i dont have a service manual :rofl2:

If you want a free service manual ( full workshop actually) then grab this one I found several years ago for the G35 Infinity from the USA.

Some things are obvously different in a left hand drive and security radio etc is different but practically everything else mechanical is identical for our cars.

http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35

  • Like 1

Hi there guys, as for what type of fluid's to use for a service on your vehicle i would try to do as much homework as possible. I have a 250GT auto and it came with no handbook etc and to make it worse nissan weren't interested in helping me out at first so i went online and found a company called datamanuals they had a download version and a disc version for a Infiniti G35 so i bought it and once i had it i found all the info i needed but it is for the 3.5lt engine so anyway i started looking for the atf fluid which they state should only be genuine nissan matic-j or else say good bye to the box.So i went to nissan and they dont know of it ony matic-d but that was not compatible any way i carried on scratching around here and there till i found a number of compatable atf fluids eg mobil 1 syn, dia queen sp III,which is used by mitshubushi and KIA, and transmax j from castrol. I could only get the dia queen immidiately but i wasn't to sure if at all it was the correct fluid so i carried on looking for info on my nissan and found another manual come handbook from a company in nz which does translations from japanesse to english so i bought that book and when i got it i found out it was really a hand book more than anything else but very helpfull none the less and money well spent but now when i see there specs on the atf they state it to be matic-d hence i say you need to do your home work as for engine oil they say 5w-30 partial synthetic.I just double checked and for a vq25dd 4wd,vq30dd,vq35de coupe one must use matic-j.If you have a cvt vehicle vq35de,sedan, use nissan gen CVT fluid KTF-1.If you have a manual vq35de you need to use nissan gen manual transmission oil MP-G HQ(API;GL-4 SAE:75W-90). If any more info required and i can help i will,cheers

If you want a free service manual ( full workshop actually) then grab this one I found several years ago for the G35 Infinity from the USA.

Some things are obvously different in a left hand drive and security radio etc is different but practically everything else mechanical is identical for our cars.

http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35

sweet. thanks for that :)

  • 1 month later...

Now regardless if your a Nulon fan or not,

this is a good guide to use: http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp

Just specify car, nissan, then i went for 350z and it lists in categories ie motor, trans etc which oil you should use.

Just for precautionary sake,

when taking delivery of an import everyone says to do a "fluids service"...can anyone specify exactly what fluids? I know engine oil goes without saying, as does trans, diff and coolant. Is that all most people do or do they take it the step further and go brakes etc? Thanks.

Also wondering if one of the moderators could post a sticky for fluids to use, how many litres etc for those interested in doing their own servicing or experienced in doing so?

Engine Oil Fully Synthetic 10W40, 4-5 Litres

Manual Transmission Oil Fully Synthetic 75W85 (GL-4), ?Litres

Differential Oil Fully Synthetic 75W90 (GL-5), ? Litres

etc etc

Edited by TUFF_350
I'd be interested to know the same thing. Just purchased a v35 as well and I've done oil, but will need to drain the other fluids too. Mine is an auto, so maybe we can get auto trans capacities as well.

Hi there,

What oil did you use? Was it fully syn or semi? What V35 do you have?

Hey guys... just picked up my v35 coupe today. The dealer who helped me import the car said he has done a first service on the car (basically just oil and filter change). However, I note that the power steering fluid is a little low (still above minimum) and is brown in colour. Is this normal?

I am thinking of doing a top up myself now and get the fluid flush later when I send the car in for a service. You guys think this is a good idea? Also, is the colour of the fluid normal? Thanks.

And a separate question. I am keen to do a dip stick check on the engine oil. Is it rather hard to pull the dip stick out and put it back in? I tried pulling it out but it's abit hard (although I didn't really dare to pull too hard). May sound silly, but can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!

Don't know if this is a silly question or not but don't the compliance workshops change the important fluids for you as part of compliance? I took delivery of my v36 this week and the compliance workshop changed oil, oil/air/fuel filter, brake fluid etc.

According to my dealer, the compliance guy does a first service on the car which is just oil change and filter change. So don't think they will change the power steering fluid especially as I note it's not really below the minimum level but it's close to the minimum level (just slightly above the min line).

I've asked my dealer again n he assured me that they have done a first service.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...