Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bubba

Would it be better to try and get a stagea that hasn't be molested (Modified) or just make sure that if it has been modified then it has been done properly.

What does the RB26 version go like? That's the version I keep getting attracted to.

I can say to my wife that because we have two kids it wouldn't be fair to have a single turbo.

What do you think my chances are?

Personally, being a daily, I wanted the auto and the RB26 engined Stags (the 260RS's) are all manual.

Knowing what I'm like with the 32 (clutch-stab happy lol) I didn't want to get a big heavy 4wd car and put more power through it as it would eat clutches for breakfast unless I drove it a lot nicer than the 32.. but where's the fun in that?!

The Rb25 Neo is a nice engine and has a lot of potential, it just needs a bigger turbo. Whereas with the the RB26, the stock turbos should be able to make you nearly 350rwhp.

Horses for courses really, if you have a toy and this is just a daily, go the auto S2. If it's a compromise with the mrs so you can still have a fast family car because she won't let you have a toy, get a 260RS.

As far as buying with mods, that's completely up to you. If the mods are done well (the mods to my car were all done by a reputatable tuning shop over here at the previous owners expense) then there's nothing wrong with that. The main reason I bought one with all the mods done was that I already had a toy car and it was coming off the road to do more stuff to it, hence wanted a complete turnkey daily package :ermm:

As for that 260RS.. they cost a lot but you are getting a GTR in a wagon body (including the extra weight lol).

I can't justify that sort of coin straight up on a car.. you could get a stock S2 RS4-V, put some nice suspension in it, a fmic and a hiflow turbo and come out with a LOT of change from the purchase price of that 260RS.

I'm all about bang-for-buck.. hehe

Hey mate, see if you can meet up with someone on here who owns a tastefully modified Stag and get them to take you for a strap.

I have a '98 RS4 and love it. If you, or anyone else is even thinking about getting an auto make sure you budget in around $450 for a MV Automatics shift kit. They just make the car so much better. Manual is the best option tho, but sometimes it's not convenient.

With some good suspension under it it will handle pretty well.

Something just came to mind........ Somewhere in the suspension thread (sticky) I think sydneykid was comparing his stageas performance with his neighbor's liberty. Not sure about the model tho. Basically I think he found that with swaybars and good shocks the car came up better than the liberty, it may have just been with bars, can't really remember.

you are probably over the replies by now

but i have recently looked at downgrading from the stagea (s2) to a liberty wagon

haven't yet because i can not justify the additional cost for a slower car when the one i have is just fine.

all i have done is fitted 17 inch mags, exhaust (not dump) and a good service

my other half drives it all day and everyday and loves it.

insurance is not too bad depending on history, age and location

fuel is not great but a nistune chip could resolve that and something i am looking into

wagon is handy as to have on the family as everyone wants to borrow t to move furniture etc - especially in rainy winter

i've towed over 2 tonne 2900kms in it and towed like there was nothing behind - fuel consumption was horrid

visibility from the drivers seat is exceptional

manual is preferred but auto tiptronic is somewhat satisfying considereing the MRS needs an auto.

quiet, comfortable, and user friendly

fuel consimption is an issue and can get very annoying

but then again its a 2.5ltr auto turbo 4wd behind a 1.6 tonne car - it is to be expected.

had the car for 2 years and it is just lovely, just watch for rust behind the mirrors and get one with twin sunroofs - my biggest regret.

Hey Race how much did it cost to get that auto kit installed if u dont mind my asking? And I think it was a forester GT u are thinking of not a liberty from memory

The kit cost me $440 from memory, was defiantly under $500. That was installed and included a trans service.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...