Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just changed my struts and springs on my series 1 350GT8,

I'm surprised to find the factory struts in red instead of the usual black.

The springs are standard as far as I can tell but I do feel that the car roll less on these factory struts then compared to my previous 300GT.

They have the Unisun/Nissan stamp on it.

Anybody here knows if they're some kind of factory upgrade option for the GT8s?

Thanks!

IMG_1710.JPG

IMG_1709.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/
Share on other sites

any chance these will be for sale soon? gotta source some struts and spring as mine is making some noise.

yes they're for sale ... i'm just trying to source for more infor on what it's worth now, i don't think it's much but it's fair price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5256085
Share on other sites

unisia jecs manufacture a whole heaps of brands. they are probably nismo struts. i would say something like an S tune.

R tune has blue struts with yellow springs. S tune is usually silver struts with red springs.

oh gosh ...

the new struts I've put in are the silver nismo s tune struts

And I just compared the nismo ones with these red ones .. the stamps are in the same location and in the same wording layout and style, complete with 'nissan' and 'unisia'

only difference is the nismo one has the 'nismo' sticker on it and the red one is in the same colour as my 350GT8 ....

I'll really like to hear from other GT8 owners what they have on their car .. maybe it is a standard for GT8s to be upgraded to nismo struts from the factory and so comes in the same colour as the car itself?

well ... looks like I might as well should had just change the springs alone!? :)

Edited by nissan rules
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5256778
Share on other sites

Nismo s-tune struts are always silver with red springs.

My guess is that these red ones are the standard GT-8 struts.

Have a look at this car. Click on the picture of the wheel - you can see a red strut in the background.

http://exchange.goo-net.com/usedcars/sprea...0100429002.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5256992
Share on other sites

dun be too excited.....

u sounded like me when i just changed mine to 350z shocks and springs...excited with the possibility that it was an aftermarket or oem hi-spec option due to the red paint....

reality is, they r just the stock standard shocks....mine r sitting in my room collecting dust at the moment...

do u have a factory nismo bodykit as well? cos my GT8 has the full nismo bodykit....Maybe these red shocks came with the oem nismo upgrade option???? having said that, the red shocks r too soft to be performance shocks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5258472
Share on other sites

they might be soft, but they could be more firm than a standard shock.

its entirely possible that someone ticked a nismo box when they bought the car. unless ALL V35 shocks are like that. anyway, youve upgraded, worse case is you have brand new shocks, not something 5 years old

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5259544
Share on other sites

they might be soft, but they could be more firm than a standard shock.

its entirely possible that someone ticked a nismo box when they bought the car. unless ALL V35 shocks are like that. anyway, youve upgraded, worse case is you have brand new shocks, not something 5 years old

.. definately firmer then the standard shocks that our 300GT had.

Even though the springs look standard and the ride height normal, the 350GT8 has less roll around corners with these red ones.

Anyways, these are up for sale $200 with the springs thrown in though I would match them with firmer lower springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322237-gt8-struts/#findComment-5261063
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...