Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy's im posting this up because im having problems on deciding who i want to build my motor.

I have been talk to they guys at Garage101 (aka import101) and they have offered to build me a motor.

the only problem is that i have never heard of them since i am in Qld and they are in Wa

as im aiming for a 10 sec motor (i know 10secs is slow these days) and as we all know motors arnt cheap

so i would only like to go dwn this path once but i highly doubt that

so any information good or bad on these guys would be awsome

as the title says im still looking for a builder perfered in Qld but any info would be great on any workshop

good or bad

and also out of curiosity

what machining can you do to your block (bang for buck) and is a must for a bullit proof motor

any info would be great on the two topics

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322796-which-builder-to-go-with/
Share on other sites

Contact Mark Jacobson who owns Godzilla Motorsport (also a trader here on sau)...

He has one of the fastest GTR's in the world and knows a few things about building drag cars as well as street tuned cars...

Mark has done heaps of work for the SAU community and has in house engine building facilities...

Most importantly he is a sponsor and is accountable for his work by the SAU community...

http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/

yas that is very true

the thing is i bought a block off them n they have offered to build it

so it would save me alot of trouble them sending the block to me

then me sending it to some1 else

dose any1 else in wa driving a 10sec car built by 101

also is any1 running Nitto internals

Dude, give Mercury Motorsport a call on 3352 3363. They are using Nitto parts throughout their 1000hp 34 gtr. They are by far the best people i have dealt with in the last 6 years of building my car. Could not speak highly enough of them and their work :)

were bout is ERD

ya i heard Mercury Motorsport using nitto gear

n all though im 7hr from brisbane i still hear of ppl sending there cars down there

ya its all good to make 1000hp gtr but are the internals realy that good

i thought it was all bout the tune these days

id realy like to hear what combo internals ppl are working for them

dose the cheap stuff work jus as good as the expensive brand

or are u better off paying that bit extra

so far i think mercury are in front

but weres all the dirty detail not ever1 gets a 100% job

lol go ERD

hahah good thing this aint a vote cause so far ERD ar in front

i would like to hear some info on mercury

i think i willl get in contact with ERD

yet on the other hand im interested in tryin the Nitto gear

and as mercury being 1 of the only workshops that use that brand

so i might get in contact with them to

Edited by pineapple
lol go ERD

hahah good thing this aint a vote cause so far ERD ar in front

i would like to hear some info on mercury

i think i willl get in contact with ERD

yet on the other hand im interested in tryin the Nitto gear

and as mercury being 1 of the only workshops that use that brand

so i might get in contact with them to

ERD will build you one with what ever parts you like in it!

He may have preferences of course but with my engine he gave me a range of options and i selected which ones best matched my budget and goals

hmm since i cant make up my mind

wat do all the ppl on here think

Tomie VS Nitto

im leaning more toward tomie

what do ppl think bout boaring is it worth the money

to got 40 thou

or even 20 thou

or is the standed boar good enough

Edited by pineapple
hmm since i cant make up my mind

wat do all the ppl on here think

Tomie VS Nitto

im leaning more toward tomie

what do ppl think bout boaring is it worth the money

to got 40 thou

or even 20 thou

or is the standed boar good enough

both are good, depends on your goals, you may need to over bore wether you like it or not, there is no real benefit in going out to 40thou though. Talk to builders about your goals, they will help you make decisions regarding parts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...