Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys,anyone run 300kw with -5s on a 1/4 mile with a time?

No one would buy -5s and run 300rwkw. Added lag for... What?

They are 360rwkw+ turbo, so you run them at 360rwkw... OR buy -7s if you want 300rwkw, or -9s if you want 330rwkw

Given that is what 7 pages of this thread is about, not to mention the other threads...

I understand the lag on the -5s but i was more wanting to know 1/4 miles times both -5 -9 running at 300kw.

The reason i ask is im running a stock bottem end and slowly building a motor to run 380plus kw and i dont want to buy -9 or -7 for 300kw an selling it of 1 year later for half the price,i do want to swap the -5 on to the new built motor chance its completed,there are numbers of people running 300kw even less on -5s,im on a very strict budget,and dont mine the lagg to save some $$

Edited by nitestage32

I understand the lag on the -5s but i was more wanting to know 1/4 miles times both -5 -9 running at 300kw.

The reason i ask is im running a stock bottem end and slowly building a motor to run 380plus kw and i dont want to buy -9 or -7 for 300kw an selling it of 1 year later for half the price,i do want to swap the -5 on to the new built motor chance its completed,there are numbers of people running 300kw even less on -5s,im on a very strict budget,and dont mine the lagg to save some $$

Not sure, maybe you missed this?

It'll be about the same. 300kw is 300kw.

Torque also plays a factor but for the most part it'll be close enough for the sake of the argument.

Same shit dude. It's not an issue of importance or one you will EVER get an answer to.

Car weight, driver, tyres etc - all far more important variables to worry about anyway.

Oh and if you are on a strict budget, hate to tell you but you'll end up blowing it. No-one meets a tight budget when doing a full build. It's just impossible as there are too many variables that again come into play.

will be going for the -5, pushing 300kw,No one is saying im putting chinese stuff on my other built motor,i was relating to the turbos that is where i can save money on,cos i do want to get 380kw out of the new built motor.

I don't get your point for, sounds like you want -5's just so you can say you have them, if you don't mind the lag why not aim for 400kw? If not go smaller. Your desicion is 300kw lagy or 300kw responsive....simple choice

I don't get your point for, sounds like you want -5's just so you can say you have them, if you don't mind the lag why not aim for 400kw? If not go smaller. Your desicion is 300kw lagy or 300kw responsive....simple choice

He is slowly building his motor so running 300kw's with the -5's for now, and then when the motor is finished being built he will go for a higher figure :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...