Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i have just put a osg twin plate in my rb20 coupe and after bleeding it it seems like the slave cylinder piston needs to come out another 10mm to push on the fork because at the moment its not returning the pedal at all and when the pedal is at the floor, the slave cylinder piston in just in contact with the fork. If i jam a spacer eg screwdriver between the fork and the slave then i get some travel in the fork. The slave is brand new, and i used what i think is the correct throw out bearing. I have not made any adjustment to the master cylinder, however prior to changing the clutch it seemed to be working fine.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Antz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322892-os-twin-plate-install/
Share on other sites

If you used the standard Nissan throw out bearing it is the wrong one. It needs to be a smaller diameter bearing that should have been supplied in the kit. From memory this shouldnt really stop it from operating though....

are you sure it bled properly? because unless you have a decent pedal its quite possible there is still air in the system. You may also need to bleed the master cylinder. Quite often people do not use a clamp on the hose and they let the fluid in the master drain out. If you did let it empty try bleeding the master cylinder.

Have you adjusted the clutch at the pedal?

Did you buy the same diameter slave cylinder?

The bearing is the smaller diameter one, as supplied with the kit. I have bleed the slave well but not the master. have not adjusted the master at all. The fluid was all drained out. What adjustment needs to be done at the pedal? The slave is fine, its been in use for maybe 2 months before the clutch was changed.

Edited by antz31

if you get under the dash there is an adjustable pin in the pedal

sounds like you need to bleed the master. Given that it was fine before you put this clutch in try bleeding the master before making any other adjustments.

If that fails come back to this thread :D

Edited by ido09s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...