Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought a gts25t its pretty stock except for a tip...and really enjoying it. However I am told that I can tune the boost up 2 psi before the computer will stop me. If I did this what gains could I expect? 15kw at the rears?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if it is stock (stock exhaust, etc) then you won't see that much of a gain from upping the boost by 2 psi. you will see a gain, but not that much, maybe 10kw. you would see a much bigger gain from putting on a full turbo back exhaust and then putting the boost up 2psi. even just doing the exhaust would see a gain similar to what you will get by winding up the boost 2psi.

also the ecu won't start throwing a tantrum until you up the boost by about 5psi, but on stock exhaust a 5psi increase would be stupid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5268828
Share on other sites

you can expect higher fuel comsumption haha..

on a serious note, you're better off leaving the boost stock and getting a full turbo back & a good panel filter.. more noticable gains.. that 2psi on a stock car, you won't feel the gains.

once you've done that, then wind up the boost to 0.8bar ~12psi then you'll feel something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269087
Share on other sites

you can expect higher fuel comsumption haha..

on a serious note, you're better off leaving the boost stock and getting a full turbo back & a good panel filter.. more noticable gains.. that 2psi on a stock car, you won't feel the gains.

once you've done that, then wind up the boost to 0.8bar ~12psi then you'll feel something

Would an upgrade of the exhaust manifold be enough?...I don't want it too loud. I think it would be too loud if I did a larger pipe all the way through. Though I could put resonators in. Its sounds just right at the moment.

So I could gain 15-20rwkw with just an exhaust? Sweet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269291
Share on other sites

Manifold upgrade won't do anything, the restriction is after the turbo. There are plenty of quiet exhausts around, and if they are still to loud than just get another resonator put in along with a better quality muffler

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269325
Share on other sites

No, A full exhaust, hi flow cat, dump pipe and filter upgrade might see that sort of increase. (don't change manifold unless your changing turbo) But you might not even feel much change.

If your chasing the sort of gain an extra 2psi will produce then I suggest looking into the cars handling first, Ie swaybars, tyre/rims, suspension, Hicas lock bar, castor & camber adjustments, Brakes!etc

You will feel a much better improvement doing this.

Then when the car no longer handles like a boat, look into increasing the power. Change the boost from the stock 5psi to 7 psi @ 4500rpm and make it 12 psi from 3000 rpm or whatever and you'll notice a much more rewarding change.

Just do lots of reading on the forums and you will learn a lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269358
Share on other sites

I had a 3in fijitsubo jasma cat back when i got my gtr with the stock compliance cat. When i changed out the compliance cat to a highflow I got a fairly decent gain, I noticed the turbos would spool earlier and faster and the car felt much happier. Probably +10 killerwasps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269359
Share on other sites

The 7 on your gauge is in the units of 100mm HG. Just like distance can be measured in miles, lightyears or KM - the units matter (a lot).

760mmHg = 1 bar. Therefore your 7 = 700mg Hg which is ~13.5psi.

A rough way is to double whatever number it represents on the gauge - then you have psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269465
Share on other sites

it wouldnt be running 13.5psi with everything stock???

i dont think they are that accurate my reads seven but i am only running 9psi, been on the dyno so i know its 9 psi... or 9.26psi till 4000rpm to be exact.

on the exhaust side i have a 3" dump decat and 3" trust silent power and i think its super quiet cant even hear it when cruzing so you dont have to have a loud exhaust to make power, i think you should get a full exhaust system before trying to wind up the boost the gain will by far be better then winding up the boost and as mentioned before a K&N pannel filter will give you better gains all over the RPM range then winding up the boost!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269750
Share on other sites

Many thanks,

I thought 3 1/2 psi was little low for the power it was wacking out. I find my suspension great... almost too tight on the bumpy northland NZ roads.

So what size exhaust is about right to start with? 3" or 2.5"? I am also told that nissans love bigger intake manifolds.

I just got married so money is not really flowing :) but i would like to get the car as a project up to 170kw at the rears if I can do it cheaply, but properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271104
Share on other sites

3" turbo back exhaust, fmic and 12psi will see you up around 170 to 180kw easily.

as for the exhaust being noisey, if you find that you want it quieter after putting on the 3" system, invest in a decent oval muffler. they make things much quieter than cannon does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271616
Share on other sites

3" turbo back exhaust, fmic and 12psi will see you up around 170 to 180kw easily.

as for the exhaust being noisey, if you find that you want it quieter after putting on the 3" system, invest in a decent oval muffler. they make things much quieter than cannon does.

As long as you don't hit rich and retard... my 34 when fairly stock was great with 185rwkw @ 13psi for about a month, then R+R kicked in hardcore and it just became a pig from 4.5k-6.5k rpm.

A new ECU or (Nistune flash) should definitely be on the cards - people not looking for big power tend to avoid ECU mods but IMHO they are worth their weight (money?) in gold and give a huge performance / driveability increase throughout the whole rev range...

Just my 2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271803
Share on other sites

As long as you don't hit rich and retard... my 34 when fairly stock was great with 185rwkw @ 13psi for about a month, then R+R kicked in hardcore and it just became a pig from 4.5k-6.5k rpm.

A new ECU or (Nistune flash) should definitely be on the cards - people not looking for big power tend to avoid ECU mods but IMHO they are worth their weight (money?) in gold and give a huge performance / driveability increase throughout the whole rev range...

Just my 2c.

Ya, I have a Z32 chip which I was going to use in my N/A but I will use it in the det instead. Sweet, that stagea sounds like what I am wanting to put out approximately. I hope to do it with a tune and exhaust. We'll see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273211
Share on other sites

How much difference between getting a jap exhaust vs a custom one from the local shop?

If you get a reputable performance place to make you up one it will be just as good as a jap exhaust and a whole lot cheaper IMHO. And you'll get exactly what you want.

Just find the right place to do it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273518
Share on other sites

How much difference between getting a jap exhaust vs a custom one from the local shop?

didly squat all. what will differ between exhausts though (talking cat back here) is the amount of noise attenuation that the mufflers have (how quiet they make the car). a big oval muffler will make the car quieter than some cannon from supercheap. unless they really cock up the piping when bending it then pretty much all 3" exhausts will flow pretty much the same.

when you start talking about cat converters and dump pipes then things can change a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273623
Share on other sites

i make 188.5RWKW

3" exhaust turbo back

pod

9psi

everything else is stock

so if you go with a full exhaust 3" good rear muffler oval as said before will quiet it down heaps and air filter upgrade you should be pretty close to your goal and be well under 1k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...