Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I cant believe no one has suggested the boost solenoid hack yet!

The ECU makes the car run less boost below 4.5k then it runs full boost after. There is a tutorial on here showing you which wire to ground so that it runs full boost at all RPMs, will give you a much bigger punch in the midrange.

Definitely give that a shot!

Have a look through the power thread mate if you want to make a set power level. If you put on even a catback and up your boost to say 12psi (safe limit for the turbo) you'll be on 160-185rwkw in an r34 gtt (depending on a bunch of stuff), so I'd imagine an r33 gtst won't be far off it.

D13 = 140rwkw (STOCK ECR33)

D14 = 9psi

171.1=D13*(D14+2)/D14

i think if the ECU was tuned properly and suitable exhaust, intercooler, intake etc

but with bog stock everything adding 2psi i dont think will give you those gains above

Is it meant to be absolute pressure mate?

I was just going to quote you here haha:

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost

Edited by Galois
Have a look through the power thread mate if you want to make a set power level. If you put on even a catback and up your boost to say 12psi (safe limit for the turbo) you'll be on 160-185rwkw in an r34 gtt (depending on a bunch of stuff), so I'd imagine an r33 gtst won't be far off it.

I'm pulling 182.7RWKW from my manual R34 GT-T with just a 3" turbo-exhaust + Blitz FMIC (peaking at around 8.5psi, dropped off to 6psi by peak power) on what I've been told is a fairly conservative dyno - with a factory tune ... yeah - I was surprised too :geek:

I'm pulling 182.7RWKW from my manual R34 GT-T with just a 3" turbo-exhaust + Blitz FMIC (peaking at around 8.5psi, dropped off to 6psi by peak power) on what I've been told is a fairly conservative dyno - with a factory tune ... yeah - I was surprised too :geek:

jrm 182rwkw is about what i would expect from a car with you mods on an R34. I think willalls dyno was reading fairly true on that dyno day. my car made 327rwkw which is about what i would expect from the boost level i was running (only 20psi). People are just use to running on "happy" dynos...

I'm pulling 182.7RWKW from my manual R34 GT-T with just a 3" turbo-exhaust + Blitz FMIC (peaking at around 8.5psi, dropped off to 6psi by peak power) on what I've been told is a fairly conservative dyno - with a factory tune ... yeah - I was surprised too :P

That's high for such low boost, it seems ppl in the dyno thread need much higher boost to make that... I'm gonne get me a turbo back, this cat back is annoying lol.

What 3" system did you get?

The GReddy/Trust PE II on mine is nice and quiet for a cannon :D

I don't know what one I got to be honest... all I know is it works awesome. It sounds mean too! really raw compared to the four inch tip I had. I think I will put a resonator in still just to quieten it down a bit. It inly has a single muffler at the moment.

I think I will wait for a fuel pump before I install my boost T. Once those two are installed I might go for a dyno run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...