Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, ive finaly got around to ripping out my gearbox for the manaul conversion and the keep geting wrong parts continues.. the handbrake bracket i got was out of an R34 and the handbrake i got after i was given the wrong one is an R33... i didnt realise they didnt fit together till last week and i went and swapped it over for an R34 handbrake, ive dummy fit it all on the tunnel and the handbrake cable where it connects to the 2 handbrake cables at the back is about 100mm too short, ive extended the handbrake nut out all the way and it doesnt seem to reach.... so after all my blabbing on is has any1 else uses an R34 handbrake????

also is the handbrake ment to point straight up or slant alot to the driver side... looks abit funny but i guess thats how its ment to be??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323439-handbrake-issues/
Share on other sites

Have you compared a r33 and r34 handbrake side by side to confirm the cables lengths are different?

Have you got a stagea manual centre console to confirm you are locating the handbrake in the right spot on the tunnel?

Is your car series 1 or 2? mine is series 2 and already had part of the bracket on the tunnel and I used half of the new bracket, but it was a stagea one, not r34.

The stagea handbrake is different to a skyline. The mounting feet are different.

They do lean towards the drivers side about 10-15deg from vertical.

I'm running the r34 handbrake without problems except I had to space it up about 10mm when I bolted it on so it cleared the centre console.

I am 99% sure there is an adjuster under the car where the single cable splits to got to the 2 wheels.....you might need to back that off

Have you compared a r33 and r34 handbrake side by side to confirm the cables lengths are different?

Have you got a stagea manual centre console to confirm you are locating the handbrake in the right spot on the tunnel?

Is your car series 1 or 2? mine is series 2 and already had part of the bracket on the tunnel and I used half of the new bracket, but it was a stagea one, not r34.

The stagea handbrake is different to a skyline. The mounting feet are different.

They do lean towards the drivers side about 10-15deg from vertical.

no i didnt check the lenths on the cables b4 i swapped them over, i dont have the manual stagea consol but i lined it up using the pic you posted of your bracket... maybe the 34 is slightly diferent.. the feet were diferent on the two handbrakes, the 34 both seemed flat and on the r33 they were both on diferent angles.. not sure which way the stagea would have gone???, i didnt have too much of a go at connecting up but maybe pnce its all connected up things might work out fine, ill measure my 34 cable and see if its 750mm.. i dont remember seeing any other adjusters on the other end of the cable but ill have another look

I'm running the r34 handbrake without problems except I had to space it up about 10mm when I bolted it on so it cleared the centre console.

I am 99% sure there is an adjuster under the car where the single cable splits to got to the 2 wheels.....you might need to back that off

what bracket did you use on your stagea?

im not having much luck.. just measured the cable i was given, about 720mm so theres my problem possibly diferent between 2 and 4 door??, also lost my flywheel bolts so looks like im off to the wreckers again tommorow anyway, lets hope this is the last time... any1 got anymore thoughts on the handbrake issue im having, will i ever get this car back on the road :cool:

One small problem

I have a r34 handbrake which is identical to a R33 one

One of the two mounting lugs on the handbrake will need to be bent to the right angle to match the bracket.

The Stagea handbrake must be slightly different

darrin i only just understood what this comment ment, when i first read it i haddnt seen the bracket or the handbrake, should have read it again, anyway so i can just get away with bending that tab flat on the 33 handbrake, so simple, so stupid of me not to nottice...

just ment your stagea bracket is the same as the r34 and the type S stagea uses the same handbrake as the R34.. did u have hight issues in the consol like others do requiring spacers??? i dont have my console yet to test this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...