Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2003 Registered and Compliance. 1999 Spec R S15 Import. Metalic Blue. 26,500kms. 6 Speed Manual. Asking $32,000 negotiable. NO TRADE INS OR SWAPS PLEASE. Selling because I am going O/S for a few months.

Pics at the following page S15 PICS PAGE

Modifications are as follows:

Trial Bar & Side Skirts. HKS Front Mount Cooler. HKS Hiper Exhaust. Front Pipe. Apexi GT Front Brake Disk. Ohlins Height/Damper Adjustable Suspension. Bride Bucket Seat. Trust Airinx Filter. 17 inch Wheels with brand new AVS Tyres. Nismo G MAX Clutch. Standard wheels with brand new tyres also included.

Excellent S15 that corners better and brakes quicker than a GTR! :headspin:

Anyone interested or know anyone who might be pls PM me or leave a message. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32350-nissan-s15-spec-r-import/
Share on other sites

32 is alot for a jap spec mate. considering they usually go for about 28-29K .

do u have the auction sheet?

because most jap spec cars have been crashed before, that is why they are cheaper.

do u have the original front bar?

is the jap spec steering wheel with the air bag still there?

from the pics u have provided u can see that the car has been in a front end smash as the guards do not match up correctly.

im looking for a jap spec atm, but sorry not for that price on a crashed car............................

if u can do a better price it will make the car more attractive.

cheers

32 is alot for a jap spec mate. considering they usually go for about 28-29K .

do u have the auction sheet?  

because most jap spec cars have been crashed before, that is why they are cheaper.  

do u have the original front bar?

is the jap spec steering wheel with the air bag still there?

from the pics u have provided u can see that the car has been in a front end smash as the guards do not match up correctly.

im looking for a jap spec atm, but sorry not for that price on a crashed car............................

if u can do a better price it will make the car more attractive.

cheers

Thats fine, im not after usual prices. Im selling this car. I dont have the front bar or rear wing or any other part as the car came as is. It actually has an aftermarket steering wheel and factory airbag from Nissan. Airbag purchased becuase it was required the Insurance Company. Inregards to if its been in an accident before, I have NO IDEA. I know I have never crashed it and to me everything looks good, drives good and sounds good. :headspin:

You have no evidence that the car was in an accident, so dont go throwing bullshit accusations around like your some straight up g. Your no fkn registered panel beater to say its been an accident... and your not a fkn automotive valuer to say what the cars worth. You cant compare this car to examples you see on carpoint or unique cars. You just trying to justify to this guy that he should sell you the car cheaper cos your pointing out problems with it (mind you, yet to be proven). You want to buy a 28-29k model you wont test drive or know little about.. go ahead. You want to buy a registered, complianced and tested car thats here and now ready to take home, pay ur 31-32 g's to this good sir. The only mistake he said when advertising is that it hasnt got the stock wheels.. its got R34 GTT stocks. Still look ok though.

Yeah, i know. Thats what im trying to explain to this guy.... Guards can be warped or not straight from being lowered, as going over humps etc can bump under the guards and mis-shape them all round. Front bar? well does everyones car with a front spoiler mean its been front ended? lol i dont think so. The steering wheel? once again, everyone with a momo or bride wheel been accident?

I mean it looks to be a very nice car.. even the clutch is a nismo item worth a fckload, not to mention the rest of the stuff. If i wasnt buying an s2000 id consider it! very good buy... All the best N/A!!!!

yeah, i don't know how you can tell just by looking at some low quality web pictures.. and there is no evidence to suggest that. Anyhow, i think enough has been said on this.

Nice car!! good price too for all that also.

Thanks guys.

Forgot to mention the original books are available with aftermarket receipts and warranty card from Japan.

Also to clear up about the wheels. I have the standard wheels which has brand new tyres. This is included with the sale. I took them off and fitted the 17inch wheels from an R34.

Hi N/A.

You may wish to obscure the number plate on these photos as you never know who is perusing these forums. As I assume you are aware the Regency Nazis read HPI (and others) and your list of mods along with the accompanying photos may result in a please explain and a dose of fudge-packing from Regency next time you wish to register your car.

Just a thought. Good luck with the sale.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...