Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey gauges im looking at getting some gauges for my car. is there anything out there that is cheap but still good or is it prettu much you get for wat you pay for? ive seen these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Race-Tech-60mm-Smok...=item2a078a21fb just wondering if these are a peice of shit or they will be ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323548-gauges-cheap-but-good/
Share on other sites

I recommend Shadow for good accurate gauges that won't break the bank. I have Shadow Pro Series boost, water temp, oil temp, and volts gauges, they are all very accurate and read the same as my ARK multi function dash. The boost gauge reads the same as my Greddy Profec BSpec II boost controller, and the voltmeter reads the same as my Apexi turbo timer, so i can't fault them for accuracy. They are also Defi look alikes, so they are great looking gauges too.

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=502

Rough guide. I didn't pay that much for mine though, speak to Clint (username: monga); he was able to source me my boost gauge for a little bit cheaper than JustJap have. No promises though because he doesn't usually stock them, i don't know how hard it was for him to find for me.

They are a little bit more expensive than the 'cheap' gauges, but i can't fault them for anything really, and if you are going to be monitoring vital engine statistics then it is better to be safe than sorry

Edited by Hanaldo

look around, i seen a 3 pack of deffi and control bock for 600 bucks, then gages at 150 bucks, good look hard tho, but worth it, can do everythign with them

the ones u looking at r rip of deffis it looks like

Edited by thedrummer

Problem with defi's is if you want to expand your range of gauges in your car and you do it a few years down the track, they have changed the design.

at least with autometer they have kept their same design for as long as I can remember

bubba.. what are you paying through summit apposed to rocket here in aus?

Edited by BANGN
bubba.. what are you paying through summit apposed to rocket here in aus?

I think it worked out to about half the cost, and they actually had the gauges I wanted, IIRC I got a 2-5/8 electric 100psi oil pressure gage with peak/warn, 2-5/8 30psi electric boost gauge with peak/warn, 2-1/16 METRIC water temp and 2-1/16 METRIC oil temp for about $600 delivered, the quote I got from Rocket was for nearly $1000 AND they didn't even have the gauges I wanted, had to be ordered in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...