Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey gauges im looking at getting some gauges for my car. is there anything out there that is cheap but still good or is it prettu much you get for wat you pay for? ive seen these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Race-Tech-60mm-Smok...=item2a078a21fb just wondering if these are a peice of shit or they will be ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323548-gauges-cheap-but-good/
Share on other sites

I recommend Shadow for good accurate gauges that won't break the bank. I have Shadow Pro Series boost, water temp, oil temp, and volts gauges, they are all very accurate and read the same as my ARK multi function dash. The boost gauge reads the same as my Greddy Profec BSpec II boost controller, and the voltmeter reads the same as my Apexi turbo timer, so i can't fault them for accuracy. They are also Defi look alikes, so they are great looking gauges too.

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=502

Rough guide. I didn't pay that much for mine though, speak to Clint (username: monga); he was able to source me my boost gauge for a little bit cheaper than JustJap have. No promises though because he doesn't usually stock them, i don't know how hard it was for him to find for me.

They are a little bit more expensive than the 'cheap' gauges, but i can't fault them for anything really, and if you are going to be monitoring vital engine statistics then it is better to be safe than sorry

Edited by Hanaldo

look around, i seen a 3 pack of deffi and control bock for 600 bucks, then gages at 150 bucks, good look hard tho, but worth it, can do everythign with them

the ones u looking at r rip of deffis it looks like

Edited by thedrummer

Problem with defi's is if you want to expand your range of gauges in your car and you do it a few years down the track, they have changed the design.

at least with autometer they have kept their same design for as long as I can remember

bubba.. what are you paying through summit apposed to rocket here in aus?

Edited by BANGN
bubba.. what are you paying through summit apposed to rocket here in aus?

I think it worked out to about half the cost, and they actually had the gauges I wanted, IIRC I got a 2-5/8 electric 100psi oil pressure gage with peak/warn, 2-5/8 30psi electric boost gauge with peak/warn, 2-1/16 METRIC water temp and 2-1/16 METRIC oil temp for about $600 delivered, the quote I got from Rocket was for nearly $1000 AND they didn't even have the gauges I wanted, had to be ordered in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...