Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's the link:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer...id=128D55EBC81C

Dealer is Power Rd

Questions:

1) The ad says "series two GTV" what's different ?

2) "Factory 17" alloys", the rims are obviously aftermarket?

3) Why would the car have "turbo brakes" and a recaro seat, possibly because of it being a gtv or something?

All input appreciated,

Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323596-checking-out-na-skyline-tomorrow/
Share on other sites

"The GT-V is essentially a full GTT chassis - including the uprated brakes, suspension, HICAS, LSD, strutt bars etc but without the turbo (RB25DE instead of the RB25DET). Still with the Neo straight engine, and VVT, the GT-V's put out 200PS in standard form"

Thanks bud. so that answers question #1 and the question of the turbo brakes

That price seems rather high for a N/A especially since the K's aren't that low. I assume it came with 17 Alloys originally and the seller omitted that they were changed to aftermarket.

"The GT-V makes use of the exact same suspension setup as the GTT, has the same brakes (4 pot front / 2 pot rear), and the same 17 x 7.5 (offset +40) alloys with 225/45/ZR17 tyres."

"Nissan released a special edition of the GT series - the R34 GT-V. The GT-V is essentially a full GTT chassis - including the uprated brakes, suspension, HICAS, LSD, strutt bars etc but without the turbo (RB25DE instead of the RB25DET). Still with the Neo straight engine, and VVT, the GT-V's put out 200PS in standard form, a great improvement over my previous R33 GTS's 130PS."

http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~skyworks/gtv_specs.html

Power Road are a very good dealership and their cars are usually top notch!

You will be able to negotiate them down a bit on price - at least $1k.

GT-Vs are a perfect P plater car (alongside Supra SZ-Rs). All the perks of the turbo model but 100% legal to drive!

yeah but looks like a dealership...they always put the price high, then u can cut off atleast 2k off the price

That's true, mine was 2k more at car city but I went direct to the dude who imported it, if you went to the dealership though they won't be able to do as much as 2k for instance because they'd loose all their margin... I would recommend going private and just take someone who knows their stuff with you. Saving that money is worth it!

Power rd aint cheap but their cars are awesome condition. My car, my brothers car, my friends cars (wrote off the first one and got another). Apart from the written off one all of ours are going fine years on with no problems. My brother got a 2000 r34 gtv from them for 15k on road. Was a 4 door though

im not allowed.. a turbo.. and if he doesnt want a turbo. dont get a skyline

well thats your choice to drive a turbo you get dicked you cop it

but just because he wants a NA car doesnt mean he cant get a skyline, its a personal prefence

oh and a v35 onwards is a NA so does that mean we all cant buy them cause there non turbo?

The price is high becuase of market demand.

Think about it - the criteria this car has.

- Coupe

- Manual

- Big brakes

- Skyline

- R34

- P-plate legal

Probably the ultimate n/a R34 setup straight of of the factory.

Easiest car to eventually turbo charge (if you decide to) - as it is a manual and has all the support mods needed for a turbo - such as big brakes.

The price is high becuase of market demand.

Think about it - the criteria this car has.

- Coupe

- Manual

- Big brakes

- Skyline

- R34

- P-plate legal

Probably the ultimate n/a R34 setup straight of of the factory.

Easiest car to eventually turbo charge (if you decide to) - as it is a manual and has all the support mods needed for a turbo - such as big brakes.

Yes, it's an ultimate p plater car, but it is still not worth that much lol.

It's like an ultimate burger meal, you get a piece of chicken, a burger, chips, mashed potato, drink. Awesome for dinner, but would you pay $50 for it? :)

Yes, it's an ultimate p plater car, but it is still not worth that much lol.

It's like an ultimate burger meal, you get a piece of chicken, a burger, chips, mashed potato, drink. Awesome for dinner, but would you pay $50 for it? :)

100% agree with you. The car isn't worth much. It is just the demand on "P plate legal" Skylines (or any sporty car) that pushes the price up. :)

My advice for the OP - nothing wrong with the car - but paying the price of a turbo for a non-turbo car is un-fair on you IMHO. Dealerships and people in the know are ripping off P platers.

End of the day your money, each to their own etc....

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...