Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a few things to get rid of

mint rb20det turbo

pretty much no shaft play at all

$150

autometer boost gauge

2 5/8" black face

$30

rb20det auto

outta my 32

good cond

$100

r32 auto tailshaft

mint

$50

rb20det crank angle sensor x3

$50

rb20det/rb25 s1 coilpacks

$100 for 6

3" front pipe(dump to cat)

mild steel

suit rb

standard r32 gtst exhaust

dump to tip

complete

mint,good for defects

$120

rb20 tps

$50

R32 RB20DET standard smic cooler setup

all piping,joins etc

$50

r32 r200 lsd diff

complete with halfshafts

$100

located mawson lakes sa

0431683303

will swap items for the following-

-cd headunit,must have plug for aux(ipod etc)

-3" catback exhaust suit 32,s13 etc

-tyres,either 225/45/17 or 235/45/17

really only want neutons,triangles or sunny's

-pair of good width 17s

-decent oil pressure gauge with sender

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323678-rb20r32-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...