Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yawn. So much prefer to be asking tech questions to get more power or handling....but anyway. My daily GTR's heater doesn't run hot enough. Cold Melbourne mornings over-run it. Says 32 on the dash display but I'd think the heat is equivalent to 24 at best.

In all other respects the heating cooling ventilation is working as you'd want.

Any ideas on a fix other than replace the 'head unit'?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324009-r32-gtr-cabin-heater/
Share on other sites

not sure if it's the same system as the early 180sx's (mine was 1989 same era as the R32's) but there was a way to get into the diagnostics for the climate control and you can set a bias for the temperature sensor.

the idea would be to make it think it's only 16C when it is actually 20C and therefore it will try to heat more (for example).

somewhere on this forum should be a post on how to get into the diagnostics. also make sure that the temp sensor in the cabin is plugged in and mounted correctly. there should be some small slits somewhere around all the other controls on the dash, thats the intake for the sensor. it should have 1 plug and 1 small (wide as a thumb) tube coming off it.

hopefully that helps.

close outside vent then turn all way up once it is all the way up push and hold the hot button till "FH" comes on, the same can be done for cooling with "FC" appearing on sceen

OK, I stumbled across FH last week but couldn't do anything with it. When you say 'outside vent' what do you mean? Where is this located and how do I close it. Forgive me if this is just a dash vent as that would be a stupid question eh... eh. Also, what is the effect of doing this please? What does it achieve?

It's possible the actuator rod isnt completely opening up, do you get cold air in summer or only cool air?

Good question. In summer with the AC on, it doesn't blow as cold as you think it should. The car was fairly recently imported last summer so I'll assume the AC was de-gased / re-gased and therefore this part of the AC function is OK. Perhaps this points to your diagnosis......Fan only cold is hard to judge as everything is too hot in summer and too cold in winter, when set to 18 degrees.

So, let's say it's the actuators, how do you fix these? Where are they? More to the point, to what kind of person do I take it to for fixing as I'm not the type (unfortunately) to get my hands dirty.

Since you get cool air in summer, and warm air in winter, I think the servo arm (i call it the actuator rod) is stuck in-between, neither cold or hot. Try the paper trick and see if you can hear the servo motor moving the rod to full hot or full cold position.

Since you get cool air in summer, and warm air in winter, I think the servo arm (i call it the actuator rod) is stuck in-between, neither cold or hot. Try the paper trick and see if you can hear the servo motor moving the rod to full hot or full cold position.

paper trick?

OK, I stumbled across FH last week but couldn't do anything with it. When you say 'outside vent' what do you mean? Where is this located and how do I close it. Forgive me if this is just a dash vent as that would be a stupid question eh... eh. Also, what is the effect of doing this please? What does it achieve?

sorry my bad i meant turn it to recycle air not bring it in from outside

Since you get cool air in summer, and warm air in winter, I think the servo arm (i call it the actuator rod) is stuck in-between, neither cold or hot. Try the paper trick and see if you can hear the servo motor moving the rod to full hot or full cold position.

mine has this problem but if i put my finger on the electrical plug at the bottom of the unit and push up the unit works while my finger is stiil pushing

I do the exact same thing, in summer i push that plug up to do to full cold, in winter i do the same to get it to full hot position. Ive got long enough arms to be able to do it while driving, though i prefer doing it at lights

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...