Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought it was time for us to hit the track and burn some rubber. It also gives us a chance to put our sticker on the side to promote the business and have some fun.

I got the car in feb this year as a pretty clean car would have made a good cheap first car.

Most of the parts for it will be what we have around the shop custom made or our of china.

The car will receive

Gtr injectors

Nistune board

custom DMD high mount manifold heat wraped

china 50mm gate

Holset HX35 turbo rebuild kit done by us

custom 3 inch exhaust straight out exiting at side near rear passenger door

china cooler

custom cooler piping

blitz bov

DMD custom AFM good for 1000rwhp

4 inch inlet pipe

custom dash with gauges

stripped interior and sound deadning

cams weld in cage done by us

r32 gtst front brakes

DBA 4000 rotors

hawk semi comp pads

hydraulic handbrake

s13 front suspension conversion

s13 coilovers of some type

DMD spec oil cooler

Ford teritory re drilled rims to 4 stud and prob drift tek's what ever is cheap

just Jap bucket seat

it has an LSD

DMD custom MFD display with touch screen with every engine parameter

standard high comp RB30 220,000km on the clock

turbosmart boost tee

xtreem clutch

cryo treated gearbox

just Jap r31 front lip

bonnet pins

battery in boot

gtr steering rack modified for more throw to get more steering angle

I'm sure there will be something I missed which I will add later.

The car is an auto at the min and I will tune it with it as I want to run it at Calder and see what it runs. We are putting bets on how many runs it will take and how quick the car will go.

See the pics of where we are up to have got busy in the last week with a truck engine and a RB26 conversion in a R32 gtst.

We are also planing to maybe if the rb30 goes to put in a vh45de with twin Holset hx35's and a nistune

We also want to try have this car so we can use it fir track an other motorsport like deca or targa tas to give that a bash.

IMG_0308.jpg

IMG_0313.jpg

IMG_0312.jpg

IMG_0315.jpg

IMG_0314.jpg

IMG_0309.jpg

IMG_0334.jpg

IMG_0333.jpg

IMG_0331.jpg

IMG_0330.jpg

IMG_0335.jpg

IMG_0345.jpg

IMG_0342.jpg

IMG_0341.jpg

0ce1dbe3.jpg

8bb3dd97.jpg

b591ec04.jpg

32002e62.jpg

c230dbf5.jpg

That's right mate this will have the smallest budget I have planed on to build a car it will be hitting the track with most of them parts put on in stages.

Gtr resistor all wired in last night just waiting foe the ecu to get back from nistune and find time to make the intake pipe and tune it

I was quite impressed on how the gtr steering wheel came up. It was out of the gtr I am building up but someone had pulled the leather off must have been worn our and painted it black. All the paint was cracked and stuffed so I sanded it all off.

Came off real easy and now has that swede type feel to it now quite grippy

Hey mate yep keeping them alive parts are cheap so perfect for the drift pig I say. Tossing up between running the 25 head I have one day but I think the single cam will do enough tyre burning with that turbo on it.

I have a smashed white car sitting outside for parts donor if need be.

I have also changed my mind on the gear box I have a spare gtr box that I'll mod up for rwd and weld up a custom tailshaft.

Coilovers will be on there way sometime next week I would say

Got the car up an running last night and after some stuffing around with the battery was dead flat got it going.

Here is two dyno sheets the first was with it NA straight out the headersand the second was the base play around last night at 11pm was only 9psi and round 11's pretty rich but didn't spend alot of time from the base tune I had for it.

IMG_0485.jpg

it ramps up hard with the holset and hits the gate early around 2800 rpm and then flat lines. The auto and bald tires wouldn't be helping with making power so should have been a little more with good tires and a manual.

I will crank it up to 18psi tune it then hit Calder to see what it runs down the 1/4.

Pull the gearbox out and get it drift ready.

IMG_0486.jpg

All set to tune it tonight after I've finished what I have to do for the day. I did some numbers and the auto looks to be loosing closer to 40% of the power so at the engine power with a manual it should be closer to 200rwkw rather then the 150 it's making now

A few issue last night when I turned up the boost. I thought I might have gotten away without yapping the plugs down and replacing the leads coil dizzy cap and rotor button I was wrong tuned it up and blowing out the spark. Will head down tomorrow morning and get some new gear while getting some oil filters for a few jobs I've got.

Run into a few more issues on the weekend managed to find an hour to get it on the dyno late sat night around 10pm. The inlet manifold gasket didn't like 18psi and made itself a nice little vac leak ouldnt expect much more from a 21 year old gasket and 230,000 km with a big turbo and some nice boost.

Looks like I will grab a full gasket set and do the head at the same time. Will also look to stick the die grinder in and give the head a port job and stick a bump stick in.

The auto realy doesn't like the boost either so need to ditch that as well

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...