Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 Series 2 that im gonna wreck. I have a heap of parts so just ask me and i'll let you know what i have and how much...

Some of the main parts are:

1. R33 GTST Highflow turbo - Highflow done by gcg. Turbo is in great condition. $1200.00

2. Omori Gauges - Set of 3. Oil temp, Water temp and oil pressure. $320.00

3. Pink Sticker air flow meter $120.00

4. Green Sticker air flow meter $100.00

5. RB25DET Rocker Covers - Plain silver in colour. $80.00

6. Cross over pipe - Has Super Sequential BOV $90.00

7. R32 16' wheels - Have decent tyres $400.00

Also have, exhaust manifold, internal engine parts, intake pipe, intercooler pipes, wiring loom, alternator, starter motor, air con compressor, power steering pump, ABS unit, brake master cyl, fuse box, washer bottle, fuel tank.

Body panels, all in white, LHF guard, side blinkers, 2 doors, boot with gtr style wing, rear bar, side skirts, side mirrors, tail lights, rear windscreen.

Interior parts, Series 1 seats, speedo surround, dash facia, AC buttons/screen, centre consol, glove box, carpet, floor mats, roof lining, sun visors, rear vision mirror, all switches and relays under dash.

Suspension parts, control arms, caster rods, all rear arms, diff, spare wheel, boot trims, front brakes, rear brakes, rear hubs, brake lines.

Think thats about it, can supply pics if needed.

Feel free to call or msg me on 0466 365 305.

Grant.....

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi, how much for the front lower contol arms and would you be willing to post pack them to Perth?

Cheers

Steve

Lower Control arms would be $100 posted to perth, pm me if your keen.

Yeah i have 2 turbos for sale, both will fit rb25's, rb20's

Got a knock sensor for a series 2 RB25DET?

Yeah got a knock sensor!

Got heaps of pics too....

Brakes are sold. still have handbrake gear though!

Series 2 seats aswell...

post-55576-1276597962_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276597979_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276597998_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598023_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598061_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598079_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598120_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598153_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598221_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598242_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598261_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598285_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598307_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598328_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598368_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598397_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598418_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598442_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598461_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598503_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598522_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598541_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598562_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598600_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598621_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598643_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598662_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598691_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598714_thumb.jpg

post-55576-1276598744_thumb.jpg

Edited by 33_SEDAN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...