Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Decided to get rid of some of the stuff I have from the GTR thats just sitting around.

The car is a 1993 R32 GTR, so the parts are from that.

Items are:

1. Factory GTR Twin BOV - $95

2. Factory Air Box - $50

3. Factory R32 GTR Turbos and Dumps - $350

4. Factory GTR Cams - $175

5. Factory GTR Coilpacks - $95

Note: All items were in GREAT working order while they were on the car, and since have just been sitting.

Inspections welcome.

If your interested in any of these gimme a PM, and ill contact you ASAP.

If you want to speak on the phone PM me, I'll send you my phone number.

Prefer pick-up, but will post items at buyers expense.

Cheers lads,

Jay.

post-43410-1276236934_thumb.jpg

post-43410-1276236959_thumb.jpg

post-43410-1276236975_thumb.jpg

post-43410-1276237092_thumb.jpg

post-43410-1276237105_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324465-r32-gtr-bits/
Share on other sites

Sorry people,

Forgot to mention, price is negotiable. So feel free to put in your offers, obviously I'm after reasonable offers around the price i have given

Had to post this as it wont let me edit the original post!

Cheers!

Jay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324465-r32-gtr-bits/#findComment-5288119
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...