Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic state looking for rolling shell doesnt matter if the engines blown or if there is no engine, as long as the body is in good condition, prefer not to have paint faded and no dents, or missing panels but let me know what you got.

Prefer in Brisbane area so i can pick up.

contact via pm here and if possible a photo area and price.

Thanks :)

Lok

R33 GTS-t...

Pretty good condition, almost complete but has spun bearing.

Would come with lots of practically brand new performance parts good for over 300rwkw..

HKS 3037 56t .86 Turbo

HKS Standard 50mm Wastegate

Custom Exhaust Manifold – Ceramic heat coated

3.5' split dump pipe.

600x300x76 Hybrid Intercooler

Custom intecooler / intake piping to suit

All Hoses / Clamps / Silicone Joins to suit

Rebuilt RB25 Head

This was only recently reconditioned and reassembled by Colin Lloyd Headsense. Has only been used for a total of 6 hours on the dyno since rebuild.

Tomei 256 8.5mm cams

Tomei 8.5mm Valve springs

New guides & Retainers

Ported intake and Exhaust

HKS CAM Gears

Cam covers have been powder coated gold

Greddy Oil Cap

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Exhaust & 100 cell high flow cat

Apexi AVC-R -

Oiler cooler Kit

ISC Radiator

Q45 AFM & Z32 AFM

+ Lots more... Make me an offer for the lot

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate thanks for ur post but i already have a 33 i was looking more toward a s13 or r32 cause i have a rb25 i want to put into it to make into a track car, but i think i may already found one.

Thanks

Lok

R33 GTS-t...

Pretty good condition, almost complete but has spun bearing.

Would come with lots of practically brand new performance parts good for over 300rwkw..

HKS 3037 56t .86 Turbo

HKS Standard 50mm Wastegate

Custom Exhaust Manifold – Ceramic heat coated

3.5' split dump pipe.

600x300x76 Hybrid Intercooler

Custom intecooler / intake piping to suit

All Hoses / Clamps / Silicone Joins to suit

Rebuilt RB25 Head

This was only recently reconditioned and reassembled by Colin Lloyd Headsense. Has only been used for a total of 6 hours on the dyno since rebuild.

Tomei 256 8.5mm cams

Tomei 8.5mm Valve springs

New guides & Retainers

Ported intake and Exhaust

HKS CAM Gears

Cam covers have been powder coated gold

Greddy Oil Cap

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Exhaust & 100 cell high flow cat

Apexi AVC-R -

Oiler cooler Kit

ISC Radiator

Q45 AFM & Z32 AFM

+ Lots more... Make me an offer for the lot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...