Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic state looking for rolling shell doesnt matter if the engines blown or if there is no engine, as long as the body is in good condition, prefer not to have paint faded and no dents, or missing panels but let me know what you got.

Prefer in Brisbane area so i can pick up.

contact via pm here and if possible a photo area and price.

Thanks :)

Lok

R33 GTS-t...

Pretty good condition, almost complete but has spun bearing.

Would come with lots of practically brand new performance parts good for over 300rwkw..

HKS 3037 56t .86 Turbo

HKS Standard 50mm Wastegate

Custom Exhaust Manifold – Ceramic heat coated

3.5' split dump pipe.

600x300x76 Hybrid Intercooler

Custom intecooler / intake piping to suit

All Hoses / Clamps / Silicone Joins to suit

Rebuilt RB25 Head

This was only recently reconditioned and reassembled by Colin Lloyd Headsense. Has only been used for a total of 6 hours on the dyno since rebuild.

Tomei 256 8.5mm cams

Tomei 8.5mm Valve springs

New guides & Retainers

Ported intake and Exhaust

HKS CAM Gears

Cam covers have been powder coated gold

Greddy Oil Cap

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Exhaust & 100 cell high flow cat

Apexi AVC-R -

Oiler cooler Kit

ISC Radiator

Q45 AFM & Z32 AFM

+ Lots more... Make me an offer for the lot

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate thanks for ur post but i already have a 33 i was looking more toward a s13 or r32 cause i have a rb25 i want to put into it to make into a track car, but i think i may already found one.

Thanks

Lok

R33 GTS-t...

Pretty good condition, almost complete but has spun bearing.

Would come with lots of practically brand new performance parts good for over 300rwkw..

HKS 3037 56t .86 Turbo

HKS Standard 50mm Wastegate

Custom Exhaust Manifold – Ceramic heat coated

3.5' split dump pipe.

600x300x76 Hybrid Intercooler

Custom intecooler / intake piping to suit

All Hoses / Clamps / Silicone Joins to suit

Rebuilt RB25 Head

This was only recently reconditioned and reassembled by Colin Lloyd Headsense. Has only been used for a total of 6 hours on the dyno since rebuild.

Tomei 256 8.5mm cams

Tomei 8.5mm Valve springs

New guides & Retainers

Ported intake and Exhaust

HKS CAM Gears

Cam covers have been powder coated gold

Greddy Oil Cap

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Exhaust & 100 cell high flow cat

Apexi AVC-R -

Oiler cooler Kit

ISC Radiator

Q45 AFM & Z32 AFM

+ Lots more... Make me an offer for the lot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...